BootsnAll Travel Community

Alright, folks. I'm getting pretty crazy nervous, here.
I'm off to CA for 40 days, starting May 7. I'm a chick, going by myself. My husband will be in boot camp. You've probably heard this song and dance before- as I've posted the whole kit and caboodle once prior.
The premise of my trip is this:

I am landing in Guat City on May 7, in the AM. I plan to get the hell out of Guat City on the afternoon of the 8th,
and spend 3 days in Antigua. On the 11th, I will head, via bus to Flores or another little town around Lago Atitlan (not sure where, suggestions would rock.) I plan to stay until the evening of the 17th and possibly do Tikal, and spend the night somewhere up there one of those days.
After that, I plan to bus down to San Salvador, perhaps going the way of Copan. I want to stay on the coast in El Salvador until the morning of the 26th, as my birthday is the 23rd, and I want to have a good time. I plan to surf most of the time I'm in El Salvador.
On the 26th, I'll head towards either Managua or Granada, maybe do both. I plan to be in Nicaragua for 9 or 10 days. I would like, on at least the 5th of June, to meet my mother in law at the San Jose bus station, staying in Costa Rica for 10 or so days, before flying out on the 15th of June.

It will be a relatively quick paced itinerary, and I don't mind spending some time busing. I figure I've got at least 7 days in each country, more in some. I take things in pretty quickly and get bored really fast, but then again, I've never been traveling like this. I don't need to blanket the countries, and I don't want to get burnt out too quickly, but I do want to be able to breathe and take it all in.

Somebody give me ideas for my itinerary, please!

I need to go from Guat City to San Jose. I have to be in Costa Rica at least 8 days before my departure (June 15th).
I would like to do river rafting, horseback riding, a visit to ruins, surfing, snorkeling, a rainforest hike, and maybe a hot spring or volcano.
I don't prefer extremely touristy places, but due to the nature of my trip (I'm going to be alone), I would prefer a locale where I can make friends/travel companions
I've got from $1500 to $1800 to spend. I will be traveling on the cheap. My three big things during the trip will be good food, good company, and scenic areas, as photography is a highlight.
I'm adventurous, perhaps a bit too adventurous. Anything off the beaten path that doesn't involve being lynched by indians, is gravy.

Even just tips on your favorite cities, what to pack, where to avoid since I'm alone... I'm all ears!!

Antigua is an excellent starting place, as you'll meet all kinds of travelers there. Keep your eyes open there for flyers for a surf camp in El Salvador - that'd be the only way I'd recommend you visit the country alone. I haven't been to the camp, but have heard excellent things about it, like they'll pick you up in Antigua and drop you off at the camp. I've surfed at La Libertad and a few breaks nearby. La Libertad's Punta Roca is a really long point break, but the water is dirty. The nearby beach breaks on Costa del Balsamo are a lot cleaner.

I'm not really clear on your intentions about Tikal. You mention heading up to Flores, or Lake Atitlan. There's no reason to go to Flores if you're not going to see Tikal - it's a long bus ride up there. Atitlan is an amazing place to lose yourself for a few days: San Pedro is the party village there, San Marcos a lot more chilled out, Santiago worth visiting too. Panajachel is the big town on the lake, and kind of a dump, if you ask me.

El Salvador ... kind of a tough place, especially for a solo female traveler. How's your Spanish? The people who aren't gangsters (maras) are some of the friendliest in CA; it's just that there are maras and guns everywhere. To be honest, the surf's just as good in Nicaragua, and it's cheaper there too. If you skip El Salvador, there's whitewater rafting and all kinds of outdoorsy stuff in Pico Bonito national park, near La Ceiba on Honduras' Caribbean coast. If you don't end up going to Tikal in Guatemala, you can get your ruins fix at Copan too, which is on the Guatemala-Honduras border. Anyhoo, if you do opt for El Sal, check in at the surf shop in La Libertad (Mango Lodge, I think it's called) for advice on accommodations at surf camps in the area. Be very careful in San Salvador.

As for Nicaragua, there's absolutely no reason to spend any time in Managua, which is nasty like Guatemala City. I'd recommend Leon as your first stop in Nica - you can surf at nearby Poneloya. There are all kinds of breaks heading south down the Pacific coast, until you get to San Juan del Sur. Granada isn't far from here, and the most popular spot in Nicaragua. If you have time, the island of Ometepe has twin volcanic cones that you can climb, and is on the way to the Costa Rica border. Once you cross, there are lots of surf options in the Nicoya Peninsula - Tamarindo is the most popular. Liberia is the crossroads of the area, and once you're there, it's four hours to San Jose.

When you get to the Guatemala airport, take a shuttle or shared taxi directly to Antigua. The only things you will miss by not staying in Guate for a day and night is squalor and danger.

Try to do things with other people whom you meet in your travels. There is more safety in numbers, you will feel more secure and be able to do more things as a group than would be possible as a solo female.

Flores is no where close to Lake Atitlan, so you need to reconsider some of the Guatemala plans. Tikal alone will take about 3 days out of your schedule (by bus). Why not wait until you have been in Antigua for a day or two, talking with fellow travelers, before you make any firm plans about Lake Atitlan, etc?

I really liked Granada and wish I could have spent more than 3 days in Nicaragua. I'll be going back there soon.

The only thing to see in San Jose bus station is your stuff disappearing in a thief's hands. Get out of there quickly. If you feel like splurging a little in SJ then the Gran Hotel Costa Rica (60 bucks a year ago) is a great place to spend a 1st night. They have a nice coffee shop right on the main square across from the Teatro National. Nice to relax and watch all kinds of people. The Teatro is worth the 2 bucks to tour as well.

There are all kinds of rainforest canopy tours in CR. Google for one near Arenal Volcano and you can do it all in one spot. There are also several hotsprings in the area - some "free" and some paid. Try to get over to Monteverde and take a rainforest tour there. Amazing place run by Quakers, believe it or not.

Definitely try to get to Volcan Poas - sounds like you'll be here for the rainy season when, believe it or not, you have a better chance of seeing the volcano. It's normally cloud-covered in the dry season.

I find the native cuisine in CR to be mostly horrible. Bland and greasy. They have never had the taste for spicy food that seem to permeate other Hispanic cultures. That said - it is nutritious and mostly, in the smaller centres, cheap.

Sounds like a wonderful trip you have planned - relax and have fun!

Almost forgot about the turtles!!

Olive Ridleys: come ashore at Playa Grande, Ostional Wildlife Refuge, Nancite and Playa Naranjo, most of the year, but peak nesting is from July to December.

You might be a little late for the leatherbacks (October to March) but you can check with the guides at Playa Grande, Nancite or Playa Naranjo.

Just quick, cause I'm on the run....

Managua is not like Guat City....I agree that there is no reason At All to go there. But Guat City is chaos...Managua is just empty and dull. Not a fair comparison in my opinion.....Though again I say: There is NO reason to go there.

D

Thanks so much, guys!
This advice is very helpful.
Felix- What a wealth of information you have given me! Thank you so much, and thanks for the advice on El Salvador.I've heard this about El Salvador before. I know a good bit about MS-13. They're not the sort you want to screw around with- there or here, in the US. I grew up around gangs, and I have a good idea of how those people work. While most of them are just young guys caught up in the gang mentality- some of them are psychopaths. People like that don't scare me, but you can't reason with a psychopath. The MS-13 issue's been in the back of my head, as I get closer to leaving. But, I don't know that it has detered me.
Thankfully, my Spanish is pretty good. I had 8 years of it in school, my husband is a native speaker (Venezuelan), and my MIL is a Professor of the language. It's spoken in my household and partially incorporated into my daily speech, so I get a good earful daily. That probably still doesn't qualify me to travel alone in El Salvador, but I have this feeling about it, that I'm not really getting from the prospect of Honduras.
My greatest potential problem Is that I think I'm invincible- and I don't want this to be the trip that informs me otherwise. I don't plan on hightailing it into the ghetto or staying out all night, wasted beyond what's reasonable. But, I take a lot of chances, cause I'm an adrenaline junky. One of my worries is this trip is just another one of my adrenaline rushes. Everyone around me is telling me I'm nuts for going it alone. So, I thank god a little every time I get on this message board, and realize that I'm not. I feel confident about El Salvador, but I will admit, I'm stepping outside of my comfort zone with the trip in general, being alone.

As far as the Flores idea- thank you for clarifying this for me. I did not understand that was so far off. I'll do myself a favor and sort that out straight away. I do want to visit Tikal, and didn't plan on sitting around the lake for ever :P If Tikal is a must-see, the by god I'll see it... but, I don't plan on going alone. When I get to Antigua- I'll confer with whomever I end up accompanying, and play it by ear.
I thought about Copan, as well- perhaps on the way to El Salvador.
I do want to go to Guat city just for one day. I know it's dangerous and insane- but I have to know what all the fuss is about. I don't plan on going out at night- and I'll try to stay in safe zones...but I have to see for myself.

Raffi- the turtle idea sounds pretty cool. I will research it. As far as the San Jose bus station- I've not much of a choice in the matter. My mother in law is going to be smack dab in San Jose, in the San Pedro?? district, and that's where I'm staying (yes, I got a free couch for 8 of the days I'm there!!). She's going to meet me there. She told me the station was pretty awful- so I plan to be out as quickly as I get in. I plan on doing a day or two surfing, and one in Monteverde doing a moonlight horse ride. Other than that

I'll stay away from Managua- as it's boring and gross. I'll do Leon, and I HAVE to do a day in Granada- the architecture is supposed to be incredible. I'd love that. Felix- your ideas on Nicaragua are inspiring me. I think I'll be taking you up on that advice.

Thank you for all of your help and suggestions. Any more information any board member has would be completely awesome. Anything from best restaurants, watering holes, good cliff diving locales, secret surf sports, hostel gems... Come on!!!! Give em up...lol.

I would strongly recommend going to Copan, Honduras, if only for a day and night. It is a very laid back place with several very interesting things to see.

The ruins won't impress you after Tikal, but it is quite interesting to be able to see the pyramid that the above ground pyramid was built over. The museum at the ruins is usually not open, but if it is, it is extremely interesting.

The birds and scenery at the bird sanctuary Macaw Mountain are fabulous.

The Enchanted Wings Butterfly House is beautiful and owned by the most knowledgeable naturalist I have ever met.

Iguana Azul is the nicest hostel for the money that I have ever found.

You can find much more information on all of these places from their web sites.

I can see that your travel experience and sense of adventure won't keep you away from El Salvador but don't let the rumours keep you from having a great time there. I've lived in San Salvador for just over a year and yes you have to watch your back, but most of the trouble is limited to certain areas of the city and is mainly gang on gang violence. La Libertad is abit seedy but just past there are awesome surf beaches with plenty of places to stay. Contact these guys at explorelsalvador.com even if your not interested in their tours they will help steer you in the right direction. My wife and I also celebrate our birthdays the month of May, have fun

Ok, some impressions.

1. El salvador isn't as bad as its made out here, but its no picnic to travel in. San Salvador IS as bad as its made out here. Its also not much to see. LIke most central american capital cities, its a concentration of th worse elements of the country all in one place, and then there are good people who have to suffer through them. The rich one live in gated commmunites and have bodyguards, especially in San Salvador.


I saw no gangs of any sort in El Salvador, the country, and and never want to see San Salvador, the city, again.

The people are friendly. The travelling facilities are prett primitive. The surfing beaches are primitive and nice, but I can't comment on the surfing. I don't surf. I only know that I couldn't walk out very far or bodysurf safely on them.

2. Tikal is incredible. YOu need at least 3 days to get there, see things, and go back. I recommend 4 days, which gives you a second chance to look at things you missed the last time.

3. Copan is incredible, Copan ruinas a great town.


4. Don't let people talk down Pana. Sure, its not a New Age miracle like San Marcos, nor is it a stoner heaven like San Pedro, but the people there are nice, its good relaxed living, and its a good base for day trips all over the lake.

5. Consider Todos Santos. It takes two days to get there, and a day to return, but its something that really gives you an impression of a Guatemalan high mountain town in a safe and sedate manner, with good hiking all around.

You are a single female, try to get in with a group.

6. Antigua is a good start to travel in Guatemala, with the vibes of Guatemala and the comforts of a tourist centered town. Its where the richer people live that work in Guatemala city, but don't want to live in it.

BTW. I have tried to see Guat city as a tourist location, and was bitterly disapointed. Zone I, where the buses are, and where the cheap hostels are, is simply dangerous outside the actual bus stations. Always take a cab to the specific bus station you need, even if its only a 5 block walk, IF you can find it, which is doubtful. There are few signs, just big parking lots and run down buses.

If you MUST stay there, find a hotel in Zone 10 or the rich district. Night time is a jungle in the poor zone, even during the day. I saw a man pickpocketed in broad daylight, and yes, he was Guatemalan!!!

In antigua, don't go out at night past whatever hour is recommended by your hostel. The safety rules change monthly or yearly, it seems. My friend, a large woman, went out at 11 pm and was nearly accosted. So, I speak from some experience. She wanted to go out alone, and well, she gets what she wants. This is a girl that normally can take care of herself.

I'm a man, and I had little trouble, but... Once someone did seem like he was following me. I made out like I had a largish blade, showed it to him, and he faded away in th backround. Yeah. It was spooky, and luckily, I don't know if he intended anythng or not. Being a boy who lived in some of the worst parts of Philadelphia(Not THE worst, don't get me wrong) I have developed a certain instinct about this.

Oh, never actually take OUT a blade in this situation. Then you're calling for a knife fight, and unless you're fast and experienced, getting stuck or shot is not pleasant. Some of these guys cut their teeth on a good knife fight.

If you do kill or hurt them, then you have the police or the chaps friends to deal with. Neither are pleasant.

Yeah, I've got that instinct, too... it's street smarts. It's not fun to live in the hood, but it definitely helps when you know how to survive, or even thrive in it.
I hope that my knowledge of body language and familiarity with the gang/criminal mentality helps me in the long run.
We'll see.
I guess I won't stay in San Salvador. I'll do what I can.
Thanks for the advice.

-Jess

The best way to deal with a sketchy situation is NOT to be in one, or expect to be in one. Work to avoid them if you can. This means seeking out local knowledge and following it, not the paranoid ramblings of the US state department, or the uninformed fears of other people.

For example, I was told not to go to Romania by Hungarians, because it was too poor and dangerous. Poor it was, dangerous not, except for Bucharest, and thats just another big city with some dangerous elements, street smarts helpful.

If you're always looking for trouble, you'll find it. The times I did go looking, wiht others or myself, I found it.

Still, in the cities in Central america its always good to have awareness of possibilities, especially at night.

Well, there is always a dissenting voice.

I agree with almost everything everyone else here has said. San Salvador is NOT pretty...BUT...

I have never seen this anywhere else I have been. People were constantly offering me cards and telling me to phone them if I needed help-any kind of help. People were inviting me to stay in their homes for free and I got taken to dinner a couple of times. I found the friendly spirit of these people terrific...and I did use one of the cards when I thought I was a little lost. The guy described how to get where I was going....then said screw it and said he would drive over and get me there. I have a soft spot for San Salvdor because of this.

Guat City. Well, it's a hole, but maybe it's worth it to see. The zocalo was quite pretty, I guess.

D

Two cents worth here: Ditto on the comments for Tikal. It's a must see if you'll be near. I've been there numerous times and the experience never disappoints. I stay at the Jaguar Inn, hammocks on the porch, to sleep in the experience. You'll see nearly as much wildlife from your breakfast table there after an early hike as you do hiking. Overnight bus makes it simpler and comfortable. Antigua and Panajachel are great visits and I agree Antigua is a great spot to connect. Seek out the Sauna in Jocotenango about 3 kilometers north of Antigua for an inexpensive massage and sauna. I missed Coban my last trip but won't my next. Guatemala City: after my first visit, I move through as quickly as possible and get someplace really interesting like Antigua. Have a great trip!

i agree with tortuga traveler on El Salvador and San Salvador - its really not as bad for tourists as many make out. sure there are gangs etc, but its no different from many other CA cities - there is always goign to be a bad element i guess.

For what its worth, i felt more comfortable walking through san salvador than i did guat city. much more comfortable.

Theres some great stuff in el salvador, and its still off the beaten path as far as CA gringo trail goes - its a great place to travel through.

Sometimes challenging, but highly rewarding.

If you are going to surf in El Salvador, you may consider places like El Zonte and El Tunco which have hotels/hostels catering to surfers and are outside La Libertad town - which may be a bit seedy. Look at the list of links to tour operators and hotels/hostels I have compiled here:
El Salvaodor links to hotels - tour operators. Also look at this YouTube video of girls surfing in El Salvador that I found: Girls Surf Camp. I think it is at El Tunco.

on the subject of El Salvador coast - Sunzal, just down the road from El Zonte, is also a smashing little place