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Holds PhD in Packing
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We arrived in Managua from San Jorge at about 4pm. Took a taxi from the bus station at Mercado Huembre to Managua Guest house $5pp and we gave him an extra C20 for taking us and waiting at ATM. Managua Guest House is very nice located in a quiet suburban neighborhood. No internet at the Guest house but there is an internet place right around the corner. $30 with air conditioning. The owner arranged for a taxi in the morning C70 and said C150 for bus to Rama-. They also stored our excess baggage since there is a 40 lb. weight limit on luggage to the Corn Islands.

We walked to a modern mall with several banks and a super market. We ate at the food court which had decent food and bought some FC at store 750mlfor C135.The next day I walked back up to get money for our trip to Corn Island- no problem except it was all in C500 notes which are very difficult to cash. It was May 1- Labor Day in Nicaragua and no banks were open. Luckily the store was open so we were able to get some smaller change.

The taxi came at 9:30m and took us to the bus station, however, the early express bus was not running due to holiday and the next express was at 2pm so we decided to take an ordinario. The bus station had quoted C150 for express and 120 for Ordinario but this bus charged us C150 and they explained this was a different bus line.

The trip to Rama was a long ride and very crowded with little leg room. We passed through several eco-systems much like GC to Livingston. Managua is in the interior lowlands, very hot and humid. We climbed into mountains, very dry but cooler and then, after Juilgalpa' dropped into greener area as we got closer to the coast. When we got to San Tomas, they unloaded bus into taxis for the rest of the trip. As we approached Villa Sandino, the road was blocked by police. There was some type of meeting or festival going on with a number of men in white shirts and hats on horseback. No one seemed to know what was going on and after about 45 minutes they lifted the road block and we were on our way.

The taxi took us on to Eco-Hotel El Viveros. This is a beautiful place about a kilometer from Rama. The taxi driver charged us an additional C100, over our protests that we had already paid the bus driver.

We were very pleased with Eco Hotel Viveros. They have large rooms for $25 per room with air and it is a quiet peaceful setting. We ate dinner there; shrimp and Pescado- C225 for both. The next morning we took a tuk-tuk into Rama. C10 for both. We thought that getting to Rama just before 7am would work for us however when we got there we had to wait until panga (C400 for both of us) was full which did not happen until 9:30am.

We arrived in Bluefields at about 11:15am. Bluefields is like a very large Livingston, somewhat chaotic and rundown-but they are making improvements. We went to the restaurant at Hotel Bluefields Bay and had their Sopa Marisco. It was very good and the setting is beautiful- quiet and cool right on the harbor. Turn left at the main street after you get off the ferry- about three blocks on the riverfront.

We took a taxi to airport and flew to Big Corn then took another taxi to the panga for a twenty minute ride to Little Corn (C110 each). They appeared to be having a contest with other boats to see who could make crossing with least amount of water in boat and we had none. Of course, the sea was fairly quiet that day.

We were met at the dock by a couple of men who directed us to the east side of the beach. Elsa’s and Carlito’s had no room (Carlito’s does take reservations although they give up the room if you do not arrive within a short period after the boat you are suppose to come in on arrives) but we got a cabana at Gracie’s, the least attractive of the places and room did not face into ocean which reduced breeze in room ($20 per night). There large comfortable bed with mosquito net, however, the shower caused a moat between the room and toilet which required jumping over or wading through.

Little Corn is absolutely beautiful with no motorized vehicles and small paths through the jungle from the sidewalk west side of the island to the sand paths on the east side. We had dinner at Carlito’s which was wonderful.

The next morning I walked over to the village and made reservations for the for the pork dinner at Barra Intel Libre that night. (reservations required) Dick joined me for breakfast at Casa Iguana an eco-lodge set on a cliff above the ocean. Coffee, fruit bowl (huge with mangos, bananas, melons, pineapple and coconut) and pan de coco for less than $5 for the two of us. I was still having problems with my back from the motorcycle accident so I had a one hour massage for C500, highly recommended. We inquired as to a cabin (range in price from $35 to $75) but they were full through the weekend- (recommend calling ahead for reservations).

I walked back along the beach to our cabana and went snorkeling in front of Gracie’s but there was only sea grass and the reef was further out than I wanted to swim. We went to lunch at Elsa’s next door. Great pescado and camarones in tomato sauce with rice-carrots and cucumbers but C380. After lunch we walked to the village and used the Internet at Hotel Delfino (only place on the island with internet about C40 per hour). We made an appointment for a dive the next day with Dolphin dives right there at Hotel Delfino. The only ice cream on the island is from the Eskimo store- prepackaged bars etc.

We cut back to the eastside across the football field and through a rain forest type area and came out at Coral Beach. This is an area where lots of local residents live. Tried snorkeling there but saw only about 6 fish obviously need to go to the reef to see much although reportedly there is good snorkeling in front of and west of Casa Iguana.

That evening we walked over to the Cuban restaurant and had an awesome dinner: pork roast with rice &beans; salad and potatoes and the best Mojitos we have had in CA (C650($35)for dinner and drinks for the two of us-worth every penny- we had enough left over for lunch the next day). We distributed some glow sticks on way back to local kids and walked back across island using our led lights. The path lined with wolf spiders, looking like tiny diamonds leading the way-beautiful. We saw four different types of crabs along the path; they come out at night and eat coconuts and fruits that have fallen in the jungle. At night we were awaken several times by the sound of crabs trying to get into cabana. I had a dream that I woke up and mosquito net was covered with crabs.

Next morning we awoke to another beautiful day in paradise we quickly got into a routine of walking up to Casa Iguana for their fruit bowl and pan de coco. It was so beautiful and cool up there, it was hard to tear ourselves away. The path back to the cabanas is lined with various fruit trees and we picked up mangos from the side of the path and had those for lunch. The green ones that barely give are the best ones for eating.

That afternoon we dove White Hole with Dolphin Dives, ($35 each) - only 8 meters so were able to stay down for almost an hour. We saw two nurse sharks, porcupine fish, trunk fish, an eel, a flounder and many tangs, damsels, wrasses etc. Although the area is often frequented by eagle rays, there were none in sight that day. The visibility is great and due to the shallowness there was plenty of light.

After our dive, we settled for ice cream from the Eskimo shop for dinner and sat in Adirondack chairs in front of Hotel Delfino and watched the sunset. When we got home found crabs had invaded our cottage. Dick herded them out. We had more requests for light sticks from both kids and adults, who had never seen them before. The next morning when we woke up we found that crabs had climbed up on the table beside the bed and eaten a mango we had there, glad I didn’t know that before I went to bed and I wondered if that dream I had the other night was really a dream!

This was our last day on Little Corn (we were warned that we should probably spend the night before we flew out on Big Corn since a passing storm could delay or cancel the boat from Little to Big Corn). After breakfast, we were wandering along the path and came across a small homestead. Looking around we found several mango trees, breadfruit, bananas, star fruit, pineapple, avocadoes and coconuts all growing in the jungle. The strange looking fruit that looks a little like a potato with many eyes is called Noni- indigenous remedy for many illnesses. Apparently the gardening practice used on Little Corn is that go out in the spring and cut away anything you don’t want growing- no planting required.

While packing to leave, we had our first torrential rainstorm- sheets of water that instantly soaked through and strong wind- which lasted for about five minutes and returned to bright skies and pleasant breezes.We crossed over the island and went to Bridget’s for lunch. Chicken in ajo sauce over rice- very good but it took over an hour to cook. ( C170).

We took the 2pm ferry and arrived on Big Corn at about 2:30pm. There was the usual cadre of taxi drivers and since we saw no restaurants as we got off the ferry, we took a taxi (C10 pp) to Best View Hotel( $20 with air)-Little ambiance, and no rooms on the ocean side-but clean and comfortable bed. After we checked in, we found there was no water but the girl advised that there would be water later that evening?? (There was)

We took a bus ride (C5pp) around island The bus was very full and we couldn’t see much. We got off just south of Brig Bay and walked to Picnic Beach which is a huge and beautiful horseshoe shaped beach. It was practically deserted. We stopped at the Arena Club, formerly Caesars’) $65/75 per night for a double. Very posh and beautiful set back from the beach. They rent golf carts etc. We walked up the beach to Villa Pariaso which is in a beautiful setting. We had a couple of drinks and checked out their spider monkey and amazons and then to a cab to Los Millos- known as Sevas.- Excellent spaghetti with shrimp and fruit salad- less than C200. Its reputation as the best Nica restaurant on the island appears to be well deserved.

The next morning, we took bus to Anastasia by the Sea. Their restaurant was not open but they directed us to a small restaurant, Comedore Maria, down the road.-Beautiful garden setting surrounded by flowers and fruit trees. We had a ham and cheese omelet and a huge fruit bowl-coffee and tea for C100. We walked back to Anastasias. We had not booked here($35 for double) since our guidebook indicated their air condition was no good, however, on the rooms facing the ocean, there should be enough wind to keep you cool at night. I would definitely recommend them- the people were very helpful. They rent snorkel gear (full set- half day C50 and fins only for C20). Swam out to the reef which is only about 10meters out- saw several tangs, wrasses-male and female parrot fish-small black fish-lots of coral- snorkeled for a couple of hours . When we came ashore we saw a neat 3’ long pipe fish. Unfortunately he was so close to the color of the water and sand, none of my pictures of him came out.

We went to Los Millos for lunch. The buses were not running during the lunch hour took a taxi to airport (taxis c15 pp busC10 for two of us) flew to Bluefields and on to Managua.

Taxi $10 to guest house-Chavez(Venezuela) and Arias (CR) were due in for summit on food crisis and the route was lined with students with flags. According to the locals the students were bused in to show support for the government. The next morning we got a taxi to the airport to fly out, apparently narrowly missing the transportation strike which started later that day.

One quick note- we had a five hour delay at the airport in Miami and found that the Island Grill in the new terminal had the most reasonably priced food for a full lunch or dinner.

This was a wonderful trip and we are so glad we went down when we did. There are major developments of condos all along the Pacific coast being constructed and it appears the same is starting in the area west of Granada and on Big Corn. That will definitely change the character of the country, now is the time to visit if you are looking for the true Nicaragua.


"What happens in Central America, will happen, when it happens and if it happens"
 
Posts: 213 | Location: California | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
World Citizen
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I would like to read this, but the absence of paragraphs triggers a psychological response in my brain that says: "This looks like work, maybe later."


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Posts: 1397 | Location: About half way there. | Registered: 07 March 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Holds PhD in Packing
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You are right- I corrected it. Thanks for the feedback.


"What happens in Central America, will happen, when it happens and if it happens"
 
Posts: 213 | Location: California | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Holds PhD in Packing
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Correction: Managua Guest House should be "Nicaragua Guest House". Sorry for mistake. Web site:
http://www.3dp.ch/nicaragua


"What happens in Central America, will happen, when it happens and if it happens"
 
Posts: 213 | Location: California | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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