BootsnAll Travel Community

We boarded the bus to Rivas by the Shell Palmira station south of town (C25pp) The bus was quite crowded and included the usual people selling baked goods, fruits and drinks. After approximately 1 3/4/hours, the bus driver dropped us off at taxi just outside of Rivas ($20 for both of us to SJDS) over a road with major construction then a good road for about 45 minutes. At the place where the bus driver dropped us off there was only one taxi so we did not have the option of taking a taxi collectivo, had we been really short on money, we probably would have protested but being unfamiliar with the area we were glad we had a ride.

We arrived at SJDS and found that the Bahia Majagual Eco lodge north of town where we had planned on staying was closed so we chose Hotel Costa Azul for lodging. The room was fine but had little ambiance-rooms face away from ocean but into off shore breeze. $20 per night with the Internet (C20 per hour) downstairs. After looking around, it appears there are some nicer places in the same price range but since we did not spend much time in the room, this was fine. We wandered down to the waterfront which is lined with restaurants and bars. The beach is rather pretty though quite shallow and contains a large marina. There were a lot of people swimming and sunning on the beach. We had dinner at Ricardo’s Bar- Fish tacos and quesadillas about $5 for both of us. Nice sunset.

The next morning we went to The Congo Hills Coffee shop right by the bus stop across from the market. The Sports shop across the street had cruiser bikes to rent for $7 per day but they had only one gear and coaster brakes. We went to Elizabeth’s Hospedaje to rent bikes- $7 for regular mountain bikes in fair condition.(If you rent bikes, make sure you check gears and brakes about half the time they don’t work Also the seat may not raise or lower and the chains may be rusted quite badly. ) You do have to leave your passport as security.

We rode the beach road to the north end and back up a steep hill and over to port at south end of town. The guard let us go in; no ships but several large boats (mainly sail) being repaired.- We stopped at restaurant El Timor for cold drink and then went for a swim. The Pacific Ocean is still fairly cool but not cold. We had lunch at Ines, shared a cervechi and a brochette-C240. There are several banks with ATMs in town as well as the Casa Blanca Hotel on the beach road. You sometimes have to try more than one before you find one that takes your card.

Caution- Dick used his card at the bank next to Big Wave Dave’s. It would not give him money but he found upon returning home, they had charged him for the amount that he had requested. His bank covered but if it lets you in and does not give you money, you need to go into the bank and talk to them.

We rode back to down the south end of the beach road to check out some neat rock formations. The guard at port gate took his rifle and escorted us through the locked gate and out onto some interesting rocks. I would guess there is a problem with smuggling in that area. That evening we rode over to the Bambu Beach club for drinks and to watch the incredible sunset. We then rode up to Rocomar. We had their Sopa Marisco-C120- very good.

One day was enough for us in San Juan Del Sur, the beach is nice but has no shade and there was an off shore wind which did not help with the heat. We decided to head for Ometepe. We got a collective taxi for C20pp in front of the market and when we got to Rivas, the taxi driver took us on to San Jorge for C10pp more.

As we got to San Jorge, the early morning ferry had just left so we stopped at small restaurant right by the gate-eggs, cheese, banana chips, great coffee-gallo pinto C40. Wandered around and a man showed us where to buy ferry tickets at the little building by the gate. (I am always pleasantly surprised at how much people try to help you-being from the states I am a bit cautious but often they are just trying to help and don’t ask for money when showing you where something is or how to do something.) We walked along the beach and photographed a poor spider monkey on a leash by the gate. We caught the 10:30 Ferry and had a wonderful trip over to Ometepe. ($2.50pp). We sat on the top of the boat and there were only a few other people in that area.

Arrived in Moyogalpa, a neat little town. We made reservations for Hotel Casa Istiam at the Hotel Ometepl and went up the hill to Los Ranchitos for lunch. They have wonderful food for only C70. We walked up to the Cathedral at the top of the hill and climbed up the narrow, rusted stairway to the bell tower which looks out over the town. We took photos at the fountain of the little boy urinating and walked back down the hill, picked up our luggage from the hotel and went to the bus stop. The bus that would take us directly to the hotel would be another two hours and cost $1.20 each but taxis want $10 each so we waited . As we were waiting, a lady came by and offered us a ride to Casa Istiam for $5 pp. It appears that many of people who have vehicles pick up tourists on the way to town or back to their homes to defray fuel costs. A little more expensive but a lot less time than the bus.

Casa Istiam is very nice although somewhat spartan. There was a nice breeze from the lake which was less than 50mtrs from the room and a queen size bed and private bath. We walked across the road to swim. Lake Nicaragua is very shallow at that point and we probably waded out another 20 meters or so before reaching neck high water which was very warm but appeared clean. Women were doing laundry on the rocks and horses and cattle coming in to drink. The trees around the lake are filled with birds, mainly Urracas and grackles but we saw several kinds of ducks. - many birds. The hotel did our laundry-a large bag for C14. Very good dinner for only C40 each.

At sunrise the next morning, lots of people were taking baths and horses and cattle were coming down to the lake to drink. We hitched a ride to Santo Domingo Beach and rented a motorcycle for $35 for the day. After a rough start including a wheelie on a steep hill and a dump onto the pavement, we began exploring this special island. We saw a man parasailing, who is trying to start a business offering parasailing on the island, but, after our accident we were both pretty sore.

We decided to go to Finca Magdalena, and on our way saw people drying rice by the side of the road- we looked but did not see any rice fields The finca is a coffee farm/youth hostal/cooperative etc set on the hill overlooking the lake. It is a beautiful setting though quite a bit hotter than the areas nearer the lake. We had an ok lunch- quite cheap and hiked up the hill to see the major petroglyphs. Lots of birds flying around. It is quite a way up the hill from the bus so I was glad we had transportation.

After a swim, we decided to ride to Chaco Verde where we took the nature walk around the lagoon-beautiful area. There was an admission charge but it was only about a dollar for both of us and well worth it... There are many egrets and uccaras, and we came across two troops of howler monkeys. We rode back to the bike shop and retuned bike-paid $20 for damages to bike (mainly a mirror and rear reflector)

The next day we decided to head for the ferry- we paid C1400 (a little less than $75) for the room for 2nights, 3 breakfasts,lunches and 2 dinners with cocktails plus our laundry and lots of coffee. We caught the bus for the 1 ½ hour trip to Moyogalpa and since the weather was so nice we decided to take the 11am boat(C30) instead of the 12:30 ferry and get to Managua a little early. When we got off the boat we saw an express bus for Managua waiting at the pier. We inquired as to when they were leaving and they said very soon. Well, very soon meant sometime after the 12:30 ferry got there at about 1:45. “What happens in CA will happen when it happens, if it happens”. More later. ….