BootsnAll Travel Community

Hello.

I'm doing an RTW trip starting September in Central America. I have about 6 weeks to spend there.

My initial plan was to start in Mexico City and make my way by bus to Costa Rica, then get a plane down to SA. Anyway, from reading other posts here it seems that might be a bit rushed.

My main interests in this area are ancient ruins and wildlife/areas of great natural beauty. After reading other posts, I'm considering starting in Guatemala, going straight from the airport to Antigua and doing a Spanish course for a week while around that area (I intend to try and learn Spanish to a degree before leaving, but I feel a week where I'm immersed in it would be very beneficial).

I feel Tikal is a must, and it would be good to go up one volcano. I've had a look, and it seems the only way to get to Tikal, or anywhere else really, by bus is to go from Guat City. Is there a possibility of coming down to Tikal from Mexico, thus not needing to do a return to Guat City, or possibly to go from Tikal to San Pedro? It would be nice to avoid having to do the same bus journey in reverse.

Anyway, what else would you recommend on the trail down to Costa Rica? I think I'd like to avoid El Salvador.

Finally, I've read many horror stories about travellers getting a rough deal in this part of the world. This will be my first time travelling alone, so am a bit nervous. Apart from Guat City, which I plan to avoid, where else should I be careful of?

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

I have heard the direct bus from Mexico City is a long, hard trip. You might be better flying into Cancun and busing to Belize City or Orangewalk and then taking a bus through San Ignacio to Tikal. Still would be a long trip but more comfortable and the option of getting off and exploring places like Lamanai, Caracol etc.

San Pedro Sula or San Pedro, Ambergris Caye?

There is a plane from San Pedro Sula to Flores but I don't have any info on it- probably a TACA partner.

Hi.

Sorry, I meant San Pedro La Laguna in Guatemala.

I think I'm having a change of heart on my plans. I've wanted to visit Costa Rica for ages, so I'd like to spend 3 weeks there, but the more I read about Guatemala, the more it seems like it has loads I want to see and do. So I'm contemplating spending the other 3 weeks solely in Guat, then flying down to San Jose. As I've got an RTW, I can use that as one of the legs so it won't cost me any more.

So with 3 weeks in Guatemala, I'd like to spend a week learning Spanish in Antigua, then also have time for Tikal and Lake Atilan which sounds more manageable. Any other recommendations are more than welcome.

Or am I missing out on something fantastic by missing Nicaragua and Honduras?

Of course you're missing good things in Nicaragua and Honduras.

The question is, do you have time to see everything without feeling rushed?

If you love Mayan architecture, you should not miss Copan Ruinas in Honduras, and you can see them from Guatemala easily, on a day trip by bus.

2 weeks is a fine schedule for lago atitlan and Tikal. Since intelligent people with a modest but not skint budget fly to Tikal from Guat city, its very doable in 4 days. I'd leave 2 days to see Tikal. Flores and Santa Elena are not worth staying for on such a short trip.

People on a bigger budget stay at the hotel near the Tikal grounds.I've always wanted to do THAT.

I might want to include the town of Todos Santos for four days on the itinerary. It is a very unique experience.

It takes one day to get to the town, and one day to get back, since theres only one bus a day that goes up and down the mountain range you have to travel to get there.

Others like Livingston. I've never been one to love carribean black culture, and I've heard its gotten more dangerous lately. Check the stories from travellers when you get to Guatemala.

Theres an expat group that meets on thursdays at noon in Antigua run by Juan3, I believe. Check the board. They can give you very good advice.

Consider visiting Antigua briefly and studying on Atitlán at the Cooperativa school www.cooperativeschoolsanpedro.com - I had a fabulous experience there last summer - great school garden with beautiful lake views, wonderful teachers and homestays and the school invests heavily in the community. As a cooperative, the staff and hosts are paid better than most, too and you get the homestay, 20 hours 1-on-1 tutoring, and fascinating evening activities for $115/week. My photos and travelogue are below if you're interested. Happy trails!

http://flickr.com/photos/staceyholeman/collections

PS It would take days to find shuttles and buses from Tikal to San Pedro La Laguna - lots of pieces but possible. In the end I think you'd be better off taking the 1st class night bus to Guatemala (or fly if you can swing it) and shuttling to Panajachel and boating to San Pedro La Laguna.

Hi, thanks for all the advice so far. It's really appreciated.

The reason I decided to study in Antigua was because this will be my first time travelling, so I think it would be good to at least start in a city where there are lots of fellow travellers.

However, I've not yet booked the flights (have got them provisionally booked, just need to reconfirm). I'm giving serious consideration to adding a couple of weeks on to the Central America section, as the more I read the more it seems I'd like the place.

I think I'd be silly to miss Nicaragua and Honduras (I particularly like the idea of ascending Concepcion in Nicaragua, and visiting Copan in Honduras). I'm also reconsidering spending quite as much time in Costa Rica, because it seems that many of the attractions for me there (natural beauty, wildlife etc) are available in neighbouring countries but much cheaper.

If you decide to spend some time in El Salvador,
here are some things that you can do:

When you pass through El Salvador, you can visit:

1)The beaches: Barra de Santiago, El Zonte, Sunzal, El Tunco, Atami, San Blas, Punta Roca, Las Hojas, Costa del Sol, Corral de Mulas, El Espino, Las Flores, El Cuco, Playas Negras, El Tamarindo, Golfo de Fonseca, etc. etc. etc. If you surf, world class right handed point breaks.

2) The quaint little towns in the coffee growing region,
at Ruta de las Flores: Ataco, Apaneca, Juayua, Salcoatitan.
Zip lining, coffee museum, waterfalls.

3) The volcanoes: Cerro Verde overlooking Izalco Volcano
and Santa Ana (Ilamatepec) volcano.

4) Volcanic lakes or even man made: Coatepeque, Ilopango,
Suchitlan.

5) Archeological sites at Tazumal, Casa Blanca, San Andres
and Joya del Ceren. The archeological museum David J. Guzman
in San Salvador.
(The sites are much smaller than Tikal and Copan, though.
Joya del Ceren, a small place, is significant
because it shows how the common man lived at that time).

6) The quaint little towns and mountain retreats at:
La Palma, San Ignacio and El Pital.

7) Colonial Suchitoto and Suchitlan Lake

8) The former guerilla stronghold at Perquin,
and its small Revolution Museum.

9) The Imposible natural preserve, which can be
visited from the north (Tacuba town)
or from the south (near Barra de Santiago).

10) The night life in San Salvador.
Also, shopping for the so inclined (not your case here)

11) The warm welcoming people

One advantage of this country is that everything is close
(the country is small), and most of it easily reachable,
because of good road infrastructure.
It is also easy to monitor your spending and prices,
as it uses the US $ as its currency (like Panama).

Again, thankyou all for your advice, I'm really glad I've found this place.

So, I think I've narrowed it down to 2 options for my first section. I'd appreciate any input.

Option 1: Fly into Cancun. Can visit Chitzen Itza, and visit other Mayan sites on buses to Flores via Belize City (I don't particularly want to visit Belize, but it seems like this is what you have to do). Can then make way down by bus towards Antigua and Lake Atilan via Semuc Champey.

Option 2: Fly into Guatemala City. Spend a week each at Antigua and Lake Atilan before flying up to Flores to visit Tikal. Ideally then I'd bus down as before via Semuc Champey, then return to Guat City for bus onto Honduras.

The second option seems more feasable to me, but if I allow extra time, the first does let me see Chitzen Itza. Need to decide soon though, as I want to get flights booked.

imnotbrian,

You are considering two options:

Option 1) includes Chichen Itza
Option 2) includes Tikal
if I understand right...

My opinion is that Tikal
should take precedence over Chichen Itza
(not that Chichen Itza, and other
caribbean mayan sites, like Tulum
aren't intereseting too!
It's just that Tikal is the pre-eminent
Maya site, massive and glorious)

Mexico City to CR is definitely too much. Central Mexico deserves its own trip.

Your option #1 sounds good, but I 'd skip Chichen Itza in favor of Palenque and Chiapas. Chichen Itza is impressive, but not like Palenque and Tikal, and it also tends to be absolutely overrun with daytrippers from Cancun. You could head south from Cancun and do some beach-hopping in places like Playa del Carmen and Tulum and Bacalar. At Chetumal, on the Belize border, you can veer west, avoiding Belize. It's an overnight bus to Palenque, which is my second-favorite set of ruins in the area (after Tikal). From Palenque, you could take a shuttle to Flores (city nearest Tikal), or head south to San Cristobal (lovely highland Chiapas city). From San Cristobal, it's easy to find buses running into Guatemala.

Transport around Guatemala is much rougher than in Mexico. You can find lots of overnight shuttles from Antigua or Guatemala City to Flores. TACA flies too, but I've heard tickets are fairly spendy these days (I paid $70 return in early 2006, but those fares seem to be a thing of the past).

As for things to do after Guatemala, Copan in Honduras is a good bet, and easily accessible by shuttle from Antigua. It's not as majestic as the ruins at Tikal or Palenque, but the craftsmanship of the stellae makes it worth visiting. If you're interested in diving, definitely visit the Bay Islands (Utila or Roatan).

Nicaragua is definitely worth some time too. The hike up Concepcion is not to be missed, and people tend to love the colonial towns of Leon and Granada. Costa Rica is pleasant enough, with great tourist infrastructure, but I find it a bit overcrowded and overrated.

Don't plan on spending much time in any of the major cities outside of Mexico. Panama City is the only decent one in Central America. Places like Guatemala City, San Pedro Sula, Tegucigalpa, or Managua have very little to endear themselves to visitors.

Roque Mocan - No, Tikal is on both options, its something I am most looking forward to.

Felix- thanks, I'll definitely look into going via Palenque. That sounds like a really nice route, avoiding backtracking.

I think after Guatemala, apart from Copan I might go through Honduras quickly and stop longer in Nicaragua, I was planning on doing the Concepcion hike anyway .

I have a couple of recommendations for the leg of your trip in Guatemala.
First off, you can fully avoid Guat City if you wish by heading from Antigua to Flores/Tikal via Semuc Champey, which is worth visiting. I would recommend you head from Antigua to the lake towns, and then to Flores/Tikal via Semuc Champey. After Tikal, I would head south to one of the highlights of my time in Guatemala, The riverboat ride from the forgettable town of Rio Dulce to the Garifuna village of Livingston. The boat ride is incredible, with towering cliffs draped in jungle green flanking either side of the river. I strongly recommend this boat trip for you Guatemalan leg; Livingston happens to be a solid gateway to both Belize and Honduras via boat as well.

I did something similar to your option 1:

Flew to Cancun, then headed south straight away to Playa del Carmen, then Tulum, then Chetumal from where we got the bus to San Ignacio in Belize, and then on from there to Tikal. We then took another bus from Tikal to Palenque, and then from Palenque to San Cristobal. I then flew back to Cancun via Mexico City (out of the way, but it fitted with the travel plans of my mates).

Tikal is easily worth it - it's my favourite place in the world.

itinerantlondoner - how long did it take you to get from Cancun to Tikal? Being as I only have 6 weeks to get from Guatemala down to San Jose (the need for vaccination has prevented me moving my departure forward) I'm getting more tempted by doing something similar to what TallTraveler has suggested

My entire trip was less than three weeks - so after flying into Cancun we spent 3 nights in Playa, 2 nights in Tulum, 1 night in San Ignacio, so we arrived at Tikal on our 7th day.

This was quite fast paced as I was only on a short holiday from the UK - so you could easily spend longer doing that, perhaps spending more time in Tulum or doing an extra stop to explore the Sian Khan, or somewhere else to explore more of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan. We didn't stop for long in Chetumal (just changed buses) so missed the Mayan museum there which is good apparently.

Hmm, thats certainly food for thought. I think I'll leave that for another trip though. You mentioned on another thread that staying in Tikal wasn't overly expensive compared to stopping in Flores. How much was it?

(I don't have to decide this for a couple of months yet, but it's nice to just get an idea)

estaurant LA CASA DE DON DAVID in El Remate. We welcome your visit. Don David, with his 30 yrs. living in Peten, has lots of helpful information and services. The lodge has 15 nice rooms with private baths, hot water, fans. Eleven rooms have AC. Reservations $18- $26 per person with dinner or breakfast.


UR CLEAN MODERN BUNGALOWS AND ROOMS have fans, double beds, and tile baths. All have hot water. Rooms 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 & 13 have A/C. All rooms except #1, #2, #7, #8, & #9 have hammock and chairs on the verandah. Room Cost & Description
ROOM COST PER PERSON (Double Occupancy): 7 nice rooms without AC cost $18 per person includes Dinner or Breakfast. 4 rooms with A/C cost $24 per person includes Dinner or Breakfast. Their best rooms with air condition: $26.00 per person include Dinner, Lunch (or Box Lunch) or Breakfast. Extra person ages 5 to 15 yrs pays $12 per person. Includes one meal. Extra persons over 15 yrs pays $17 per person.

Includes one meal. If one person occupies the room, the price is $7.00 extra.

http://www.lacasadedondavid.com/

This is one of the options I can find in El Remate... hold on...

ikal National Park, Petén

OCCUPANCY


PRICE PER PERSON

SINGLE


US$ 53.00

DOUBLE


US$ 43.25

TRIPLE


US$ 40.54
QUADRUPLE US$ 36.75

22% TAXES INCLUDED

http://www.tikalpark.com/tikalhotels.htm

This is the Jaguar Inn. I remember there being hotels in the national park itself. If you're not of the backpacker on a budget category, which I have always been, it seems like a great option to this less brave, more comfort loving soul. Most importantly, you can get up at the crack of dawn, or whenever the park opens, and NOT have to wait for a hotel bus or shuttle bus to take you to the ruins, or return quickly to make the last bus out.

Hope this helps.

There are I think three places to stay in the National Park, all of which are pretty much at the gate to the main site, near the visitors centre (i.e. a very short walk from the Temples).

We stayed in the Tikal Inn, which was $75 for a triple (and there were three of us, so figured it was worth it, especially as it has a pool, which was heaven after spending the day walking around in quite intense heat).

Next door is the Jaguar Inn, which is where most of the backpackers seemed to be staying.
Their website is here:
http://www.jaguartikal.com/index.php?showPage=138
and they have single rooms for $40 which seems pretty reasonable. When I was there it was also possible to sleep in hammocks outside for much less than that - although it's not mentioned on the website. Jaguar Inn also has a bar where people staying tend to hang out in the evening til the electricity goes off.

Can't remember the name of the third place.