It will be cold. But it would be very rewarding if you could outfit yourself to deal with the cold. The major benefits of trekking at this time of year would be that there are few trekkers on the trail. The ones that would be there are a heartier breed that have a goal in mind the same as you. To sit opposite the highest point in the world. These people tend to be more outgoing and social with other trekkers (as opposed to the group trekkers in Oct/Nov and Mar/Apr). The grape vine on the trail is an essential part of your planning as you move up into the mountains. The fewer trekkers the more important it becomes. As for lodges, this time of year is very tight for the proprietors of the lodges, so you will have excellent choices among the lodges that are open, and the price of food and room is negotiable at these times (this is more applicable to the lower elevation parts of the trail). There will not be any waiting to cross bridges as can be in the peak months either. You will also have the opportunity to have some conversation with the lodge owners because they wont be so busy with 20 peoples meals and hot drinks in the kitchen.
The potential drawbacks to this time may be snow at the higher elevation, limited lodge selection higher up the trail, and cold. But these should not be seen as huge obstacles even for unexperienced trekkers. Snowstorms are probably the biggest risk, but usually it is pretty dry in the skies from Oct-April. Anything can happen at 4000 meters!
Here are a few pointers for getting set for the trek. First and most important is your gear. You can perchase just about everything you might need for an expedition in Kathmandu, but they tend to lack good boots and socks! Bring sturdy comfortable boots that are or can be somewhat waterproof, and bring plenty of good thick socks (synthetic is best in my opinion just for speedy drying time). For other gear remember that everything you pack you have to carry (unless you hire a porter), so think essential and think light (my pack was under 10 kilos). Layers are best and avoid thick shells that way more than they are worth. The best is a lightweight shell that folds into nothing and can keep the odd rain shower off of you and protect you from wind. These can be bought in Kathmandu for under ten dollars. Other essentials, thermal underwear, midweight top, fleece jacket, good had, wind pants, fleece gloves, overmits for wind, and sunglasses and a warm down sleepingbag. I can recommend a great place for all but the sunglasses. The shop is called Shona's and it is directly opposite the K.E.E.P. Office (Kathmandu environmental Education Project) in Thamel (the touristy area of Kathmandu). This shop is run by an Australian climber and his sherpa wife (who is related to Tenzing Norgay). Their products are good quality and their honesty is brutally refreshing in a city where everyone is after your money. He used to work for MacPac a NZ outdoor company. He has taken the technology he used there in design and put it into his sleeping bags. I bought one three season bag with 900 gr of down and it worked excellently even in -10 dgree C nights. It cost me 5000 rupees (74rps/1$) and my girlfriend bought one four season 1000gr down bag for 5500 rupees and she gets cold very easily but it worked great for her. These bags also compress into very small parcells, compression sac included.
As for trekking permits, Everest cost a one time entry fee of 1000 rupees, Annapurna is 2000 rupees, and Langtang is 1000 rupees. These can be purchased in the basement of the building that houses Fire and Ice Cafe near the corner of Jyatha road and Tridevi Marg, or on the trail on entering the park gates.
If you are an unexperienced trekker, don't be discouraged by the idea of trekking deep into the wilderness of the towering Himalayas. It is not rocket science, there is a path that is well marked and if you veer off someone along the way will direct you in the right direction. A good guide book is invaluable, Steve McInness has a decent one, and can get you everwhere you want to go. Guides charge about $10US a day, and a porter at about 5. All they do is walk in front of you and lead you to lodges where they know people or get a comission. Lodges are spaced every 3 hours atleast. Most people will open their homes for the few rupees you will give them. Guides take away some of your freedom in my opinion. Many people get them because they are unsure of what is ahead or insecure about their abilities. I think your adventure is better served by working it out yourself. It is easy. Just make sure you read over the risks of altitude sickness known as AMS. And don't mess around with it.
Being inexperienced, I would recommend doing a little bit of walking before you go to strengthen up some of the muscles you will need. There is nothing like being really sore the whole time because you are not ready for the endeavor. I recommend walking from the town of Jiri. I walked from there and it takes about 2 weeks to get up to base came. The lower part of the trail can be difficult with major hills and valleys which you traverse. When you get to the hill before Namche Bazar, you will feel your fitness and acclimatization kick in and you will pass all kinds of people that have flown in to Lukla and have not acclimatized at all. You can get to jiri by bus which leaves from the old bus station (pure madness) in Kathmandu. Buy your ticket the day before and catch the 7 am express bus. It takes 8 hrs and is better than the 10 hour normal bus. The ticket costs around 215 rupees. I would recommend buying an extra ticket for your bags, this route is known for theft from the roof.
If you can't do everest, I would also reccommend Langtang Trek. It is always overlooked by people going for the big treks, but it is a great one and only needs 9 days to get in and come out. It has great scenery and is not a terribly difficult trek. Top sleeping elevation is just under 4000 meters, opposed to everest nights at 4900 meters.
That's about all I can come up with off the top of my head. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask. I have some books here for reference as well. Have a great trip and Enjoy Nepal!!!!
Ian
ianpkb@hotmail.co
