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I was wondering if any body has been to Tibet recently. I know once it was a huge spiritual place, but with it now being a part of China has that changed it a lot? I was talking with my brother, who is interested in going there. He wants to meet a Tibetan monk and study under him. Is this feasible? I don't know very much about Tibet, truthfully, so any personal stories or experiences would be great.

Thanks all,

Asheai

I can't answer this question with any great authority, but has your friend considered Dharamsala?

I don't recall seeing any foreign novices when I was in Tibet in 2001, but I saw tons in Dharamsala. This doesn't mean it can't be done, of course. But the visa issues are much easier in India than in Tibet, which the Chinese still seem to consider a police state.

Hmm, thank you jv... I'm not sure why, but my brother seems to have his heart set on Tibet itself. My best reason would be because of the amazing culture there... Plus the geography - set high in the mountains. I will definitely look up that place you mentioned - Dharamsala. Thank you again!

Amanda

When I was in India, I heard stories about Tibet. The Chinese don't especially want you there, and the religious heritage there is being watered down every day.

Dharamsala has replaced india for foreigners, because it is so much easier to access, and as importantly, the Dali Lama and his entire religous/spiritual organisation has been removed to there. It is, in effect, an exile government of Tibet.

Tortuga is right, but I understand the urge to be in Tibet as opposed to India. Dharamsala is a bit of a circus -- almost a self-parody at times. At least that's how it seemed from the point of view of someone who went there as a tourist, not a spiritual seeker. I imagine that atmosphere can be both a turn off and distracting, but many do seem to thrive.

Tibet, on the other hand, seemed mellower, especially the areas outside of Lhasa. But Chinese rule has taken its toll, and the religious culture may not be as vibrant as it is in Dharamsala.

Another option is to consider the areas of Tibet outside the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) Amdo and eastern Kham. These areas are still “real Tibet”; they just happen to be in the provinces of Yunnan, Sichuan, and Qinqhai. In fact, for this reason, some say these areas get a bit less “negative attention” from the government. They might be more accessible and more interesting than Dharamsala, but I’m not sure. I do know I really enjoyed places like Xiahe and Langmusi a lot more than I liked Dharamsala.

I have lived in Tibet for nearly 5 years. I have traveled to almost every corner and region of Tibet and have done Tibetan research for Animal Planet, Discovery Channel and Lonely Planet Publications. I don't mean to brag, but I know a thing or two about Tibet.

Obviously things have changed since Tibet was taken over in the 1950's. Most of the 6000 monasteries of Tibet were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The Dalai Lama left as well as many other monks, lama's and lay people. Communism was forced on the people.

But, these things didn't change the majority of Tibetans. Tibetan language still thrives (contrary to many Free Tibet organizations, the Tibetan language is taught in nearly all elementary and middle schools in Tibet and Tibetan students can even major in it in universities in Lhasa, Xining, Chengdu and Lanzhou).Tibetan people still are predominantly Tibetan buddhist. The government rebuilt over 2000 Tibetan monasteries in the late 1970's and early 1980's. New monasteries are still being built (Hong Kong kungfu actor Jet Li has donated a lot of his own money to build a new monastery in Nangchen in Kham province). While the number of monks in monasteries is limited by the government, there are many monasteries with hundreds of monks and several with a thousand or more. The government failed in its plan to take buddhism away from Tibetans.

Tibet is a large area. Most people are only familiar with the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). This is the region that the Chinese refer to as "Tibet". In reality, Tibet is much, much larger and encompasses all of the Tibetan areas of Kham and Amdo. All of modern day Qinghai province is claimed by the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile as being Tibet (the current DL himself was born in Qinghai) as well as all of western Sichuan and small regions of Yunnan and Gansu province. The Tibetan culture in Kham and Amdo is FAR better preserved than in the Lhasa-Shigatse area. The government is much more relaxed about religious freedom in the Tibetan areas outside of the TAR. In Lhasa you will very rarely find pictures of the 14th Dalai Lama, but in Kham and Amdo his picture is everywhere (ie. in monasteries, in homes, around people's necks, etc). So if your brother decides to study from a monk, he may want to do it in the areas of Tibet outside of Lhasa and the TAR.

I have found that most people have a very superficial knowledge of Tibet. I come from the Seattle area where "Free Tibet" stickers can be found on about 20% of cars on the freeway. I have talked to a lot of people about "Freeing Tibet" and most have no knowledge what so ever about Tibet ("some country in the Himalayas that China took over" is about all they know). Tell your brother to do some research on Tibet before he goes. Not just some. Do a lot. If your brother desires a deep knowledge of Tibetan buddhism, it isn't going to happen in a few weeks. It will take several years. Monks spend most of their lives studying buddhism.

If your brother is serious about going to Tibet, let me know. If he has any questions, I would be more than willing to help him out.

Here is my website about my life living in Tibet.
Life in Tibet

Wow, thank you Losang. Your post was wonderfully helpful and I really love your website. Now I really want to go to Tibet too . I always wanted to see it but I kind of felt that since it was no longer independent it must have lost much of its culture. I see that is not so true. It looks very beautiful and interesting.

Thanks again,

Amanda

There is a large Tibetian settlement in the south near Bangalore India. I'm sure its less of a touristy circus if you decide to choose India as the place for your quest.