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PDU
Armchair Traveler
Picture of PDU
Posted
Hello.. i am cycling in Peru right now and will be crossing into Bolivia tommorow.

I am very interested in climbing a 5000m+ peak, hopefully with ice climbing, However no experience of the sort.

I am well acclimitized, and in good shape and generally adept with outdoorsy things + have a very limited handle of spanish..

Im wondering if its reasonable for a 1st timer to hire a guide and do something like this, and if so.. more information would be appreciated.

Ive heard its cheaper to higher trips from Sorrata than from La Paz?
 
Posts: 48 | Location: Kamloops BC | Registered: 08 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Lost in Place
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You might want to check out the Hostal Republica in La Paz. I haven't been in a while but it was the traditional hangout for budget climbers. You might even be able to join a group.
 
Posts: 55 | Location: High Sierras of California. | Registered: 06 May 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Squat Toilet Professional
Picture of halfnine
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You should be able to hire a guide and make it happen.

But, I do have a couple of words of caution.

The first is I am not sure what your definition of "ice climbing" is. If you're actually thinking about vertical ice and cruising up it with 2 short, ice axes than you are going to be out of luck. Any guide who is willing to take a first timer up a 5000+ meter peak doing something like that, you should stay far away from.

Now, if you are just thinking about some general mountaineering with one, long ice axe and a slog up non-vertical snow you should be able to find a guide for that. It's probably not going to be cheap, though. Your biggest issue is just going to be arranging all the personal clothing and gear you're going to need.

Finally, if you run into a group of climbers that would be willing to let you tag along on their trip as a first timer, well, I would stay far away from them, too.

Most of the mountains in Bolivia that require a snow ascent are the real thing. They are not a Kilimanjaro walk up.

Good luck
 
Posts: 916 | Location: London | Registered: 05 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
PDU
Armchair Traveler
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Alright, im looking at trips like this: http://www.infohub.com/travel_packages/mountain_rock_climbing_bolivia_250.html

Huayna potosi or climb illimani.. cautions?

Anyone done anything like this?
 
Posts: 48 | Location: Kamloops BC | Registered: 08 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Holds PhD in Packing
Picture of djperry
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The first thing you should do is climb Huayna Potosi. It's 6088 meters high and not dangerous (very stable weather in the dry season and just one small crevasse) so it's good for beginners. If you go for three days with just you and a guide it will cost about $120 and will include an acclimatization day at roughly 4500 meters and you'll do a tiny bit of practice on some vertical ice on a short (not dangerous) wall. The mountain itself is basically just walking to the top, but the last 200 meters are tough and can hit 50 degrees in some spots.

If you still want to do mountaineering after that, Sajama, Condorriri, Illampu (near Sorata which is beautiful), and Illimani are some other mountains in the area. But do take caution as some of these are considerably more dangerous. I think ice climbing around Illampu is pretty common but I haven't done that. But if you do Huayna Potosi first, you'll surely meet other people who will be able to give you advice of what to do next.

Oh yeah, one other thing. There are a ton of cheap companies that will take you to whatever mountain you want without any experience and will downplay the dangers involved. You should at least talk to the more expensive and reputable companies to get a better idea of how dangerous it is.


..............
Two and a half years in South and Central America.
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Posts: 272 | Location: Back in Wisconsin | Registered: 03 January 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
PDU
Armchair Traveler
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Perry -

I did Huyana Potosi with Alberth tours, and it was exactly what i was looking for. Did 3 days and got to practice climbing a small vertical wall .. stayed in refugios at base camp and rock camp.

Great experience, highly recommended.
 
Posts: 48 | Location: Kamloops BC | Registered: 08 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
PDU
Armchair Traveler
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Later climbed @ condoriri -

Cerbeza de condor +
pequeno aplomayo

I went with Bolivian Mountains (known as one of the best, but most expensive agencies) - and it was so worth it, the agency was ultra professional and english spoken, the equipment, and tents were top notch, the guide was friendly and supportive and very skilled, and the food was sooooo good.

Cerbeza de condor was considerably more challenging and dangerous than Huyana Potosi w. better views..

the entire basecamp was several groups of experienced european climbers ... and it lacked the social (amature atmosphere of Huyana Potosi)

Only recommended for beginners who are patient + very strong mentally and physically.
 
Posts: 48 | Location: Kamloops BC | Registered: 08 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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