BootsnAll Travel Community

Recently BootsnAll staff was able to meet up with a trekking company based in Nepal. They assured us that, while the Maoists still control much of Nepal, there is no harm to any tourists.

Any thoughts?

RE: http://www.bootsnall.com/adventures/articles/05-06/is-nepal-safe.html

Hi, just read your article and it made me think of an incident I wrote about in my fieldwork diary in February 2003. It was about a trip I made with some friends to Dhading:

On the way back to the resort, we passed through a small village and I noticed the red Maoist flags in the tree and a newly painted white building with a picture of the hammer and sickle in red and red graffiti, which I couldn’t read. Some men were gathered on the top of the hill and waved Bimal over. They chatted for quite a while. I couldn’t understand what about – except asking when we were going. They seemed friendly enough.

The next day when we were on our way home down the mountain, we had to pass through this same village once more. This time there were more men gathered in the road, seemingly waiting for us. One man seemed to be in charge. Rabin whispered that it was the Maoists and he was very scared. He said later that he had never met Maoists before and recanted stories about tourists who had been killed lately in Jomsom when they refused to pay up. The Maoist talked to the elder porter for about an hour and he kept looking behind, waiting for Bishow to turn up. I couldn’t understand everything the maoist guy was saying, but basically he said that English and American tourists are not welcome. Tourists are welcome to come to the resort but he asked that he not bring UK or US tourists again. He talked about Tony Blair and Bush every second word and said that Blair was a terrorist and mentioned Iraq. There would be trouble if UK/US tourists came again. The elder porter explained that we would have to give a “donation”. When Bishow arrived, he went off with the Maoist guy , sat down and talked for a while . A crowd had gathered and they stared coldly. Dylan was playing with stones on the side of the road, oblivious to the drama. He started wielding a stick at the chickens – one old man smiled and chuckled , but the general feeling was of animosity, unease, fear. The younger guide, Rabin, was really frightened and looked angry, but everyone kept quiet. Bishow returned and said the Maoists suggested we “could make a donation if we wished”. We said we didn’t want to, but the porters said it was too risky not to, we didn’t know what they’d do. They reminded us of the Jomsom story. Things can get nasty if you refuse. We asked how much we should “donate”. It was suggested 2000rs between the 5 of us. I asked if we’d get a receipt. Bishow shrugged it off and went off again. He came back with no receipt. We carried on with a feeling of unease. For the rest of the trip down we now felt uneasy taklking/smiling at villagers. Rabin said he would not say hello. These villagers might be Maoists. However, I kept saying namaste and smiling and generally people were friendly. One old man asked what had happened and when told said “this is a problem of our country”. Rabin was particularly perturbed. He said he hated the Maoists . I noticed the Maoists were the ones with the nice clothes and shoes, with the nicely painted house. Rabin said they would spend the money themselves having a good time, eating and drinking and the village would see no benefit. He said if the army knew we had helped the Maoists they would threaten us too – what to do? He kept saying “we can do nothing”.

Ian asked whether giving them money was supporting them and because it was so easy, it would make it easier next time and they could ask for more money. Rabin kept saying you don’t ask questions, you just give because you don’t know what they’ll do. Rabin said this was the first time they had encountered Maoists on the way to the resort. They were here 5 years ago, but nothing since. I wonder how much they move around? Bishow and Magreg seemed flippant. Magreg invited us back next week hangliding
And recommended I stayed there for my research. I was not keen to go back. It seems they will continue promoting the resort. Tourists are not told about the Maoists – except on the bigger, well-known Maoist areas around Annapurna, where the price of the Maoist donation is budgeted into the package price. And you get a receipt, so that you can prove you’ve already paid if you’re stopped again. But these receipts are flashed by tourists like chic souvenirs. We didn’t get a receipt, so were they real Maoists?

Bishnu on returning home, asked if we had got a receipt. When we told him our story he said if we had a receipt we could take it to the police and have an interview. He said they probably weren’t real Maoists if we didn’t get a receipt . But surely giving receipts gives away their location and invites army intervention? I couldn’t help wondering what would happen to the villagers if the army went in. They would be punished for ‘supporting’ the Maoists.What should you do a s a tourist? If you do nothing are you just supporting them? If you go trekking in areas where they are known, isn’t it morally wrong if you don’t support them? Tourists seem to know nothing about the risks of Maoists or what to do if you encounter them. Shouldn’t guides have a responsibility to educate tourists? But there seems to be nothing available for tourists to read – only gossip to go by- just pay up and shut up. Rabine recounted a story he’d heard by one of his family’s domestic helpers. She had been captured by Maoists on the way to school and was raped everyday by 40 Maoist soldiers. You don’t hear about such stories – are they really true? No other expats I spoke to remember any killings of tourists in Jomsom lately. Ben said it’s unlikely, as it would have been in the papers and embassys would have been involved. So is it mere rumour exacerbated by fear? Where do all these stories come from and what do they do? Who do they effect? There is also the case of the missing person – posters can be seen around Thamel – Irish National who “looks like a Muslim”(Linda) who is drawn reference to by people – gossip about how he is probably dead, killed by soldiers or Maoists. I realised coming back to Kathmandu seeing all the soldiers around again – how sheltered it is here and shielded from the problems. I felt anxious about going trekking or going out of Kathmandu again. It seemed risky and I didn’t want to get into something I knew nothing about.

Sarah

I recommend the following link: Nepal News blog

Also check the links on the side, especially United We Blog! and YetiZone. If you are going out of KTM valley especially maybe you should check these boards first. Also bring a radio and listen to BBC News, read the KTM Post, ask around, etc.

I am going to KTM at the end of next month - am not too worried. I was there immediately following the royal massacre and want to go back - so there you go.

Stay safe but have fun!

Thanks hawaiiansnowlion! I have spent the whole day researching the Nepal News blog and also The Lonely Planet's 'Thorn Tree' travel forum on Nepal. All really useful and with practical information about what it's like in nepal now.
Thanks again,
Sarah

Hello,
Nepal is really a safe destination nowadays. If you are Intrested you can come here
see us.

This email below is from a reliable Nepali friend. I know they are trying to drum up business, but it seems like things are starting to stabalize. Donovan


As for us, after being hit the hardest business in Nepal is finally picking up. Thanks to the improving scenerio. Well you must be aware of the developments that have been taking place out here, however, let me give you a quick update, just in case.

The Government of Nepal and the rebel faction have concluded their first round of peace talks. This has sent a positive vibe among the countrymen whose only desire is to see a stable and prosperous Nepal, and has kindle a hope for permanent peace and security in the country, which in turn have made us believe that the recent decision made by the government will provide an environment conducive for tourism activities in Nepal which has remained the mainstay of Nepalese economy. Nepal is all set to welcome tourists from every corner of the world at the backdrop of green environment and temperate climate of spring. The number of tourist visiting Nepal in recent past also speaks volumes to Nepal's claim of most happening and enchanting destination with sufficient safety and security in the major tourism destinations within the country.