I'm going to Amsterdam in early december to visit friends and I've had a bad hankering to visit Istanbul forever so I was thinking of popping on over there for the last few days of my trip. It'll be rushed but fun, I just want to see the major sites (haggia sophia, topkapi, etc) and walk around town, next year I'm planning a more extensive trip in the area. Does anyone have any recommended hostels or cheap hotels relatively close to the major sites? I can't decide if I want a single room or bunk with others but the price difference is negligible to me so I'd probably be ok with either and decide once I get there. Also, I read that you can get a visa at the airport for around $20 is that right? And, once you're at the airport, what's the best way to get into town?
You actually have to try quite hard to find accomodation that's not close to the main sights...the vast majority of them are along one street in the sultanahmet, just a couple blocks from the Aya Sofia or Topkapi.
We stayed in the Sultan hostel, and it was good. However, when we were shown a private (double) room, the it looked kind of nasty, so we stayed in a 4-bed dorm instead - it was cheaper, and we had it to ourselves half the time. I didn't think there was anything special about the hostel, but it's reasonably priced and includes a basic breakfast. Try the stew at the restaurant next door on the corner though.
A couple friends of ours recommended Side Pension, which might be the better way to go if you're going for a private room...a bit higher quality, but still reasonably priced.
Visas are bought on arrival at the airport. The price varies depending on how the Turks are feeling about your country that day, but the last I heard it was $20/€15 for Americans, must be paid in cash in one of those currencies, so don't show up with no money.
Getting in from the airport depends on which one. Ataturk (IST) is connected to the metro, which you take to the end of the line (in the into town direction), and then walk about a block to transfer to the tram, which you take to Sultanahmet. There are also shuttle buses to the hotel district, but it costs a lot more.
Sabiha Gokcen (SAW) is a long ways away, so the tourist shuttle, while a little pricier, might be the best option. There's more budget flights going to S. Gokcen, so frequency is better than it used to be. According to Turkey Travel Planner, there is a bus that runs to a ferry terminal to cross the Bosphorus, and then take the tram up the hill to Sultanahmet. I haven't used either airport (arrived and departed overland), but friends of ours rate the trip to S. Gokcen as a good mini-adventure.
I should also say: Istanbul is an experience. When you're comfortable with it, it is simply amazing. But it's also a major tourist attraction in a country that's better off than some, but still poorer than you. So it also has its share of touts and scam artists. In the grand scheme of things, Istanbul's a pretty easy place to travel, but if it's your first experience outside of the wealthy bubble of North America and Western Europe, it can be overwhelming.
I say this not to scare you off. Many of us on the boards are nothing short of being in love with Turkey. I say it because you do need to be mentally prepared, and I worry that if you're not, you'll get there, hate it, and never come back to discover more of this incredible and beautiful country. When people have longer trips, we usually recommend visiting Istanbul last, once you're more comfortable with Turkish culture, but you don't really have that option here.
I've stayed at the Orient Hostel and at Cordial House. Both are fine and central (as is most budget accommodation in Istanbul), but I'd opt for the former because of the view of the Golden Horn from the pub/breakfast room.
To get to the center from the airport, take the metro to Zeytinburnu (sp?), then a tram - for the Orient hostel, the stop is Sultanahmet (this is also closest to the Aya Sofia and Blue Mosque etc.), for Cordial House it's Cemberlitas. It will cost you 2,60 Lira. There's also a shuttle bus to Taksim from the airport.
The visa (3 months, multiple entry) for Europeans is 10€, I believe it's slightly more expensive for Americans.
I stayed at the Hanedan Hotel and really enjoyed my stay. The hotel was very clean and quite spacious. It's close to all the sites, but is on a side street so you don't have a big problem with noise, like you do in some of the hotels there (although December may not be bad noise-wise). Turkey is so cheap in general that you shouldn't have any problem finding a decent place for a low price. The Hanedan will also arrange for transport from either airport for you for a small fee. If you're traveling from Sabiha Gokcen Airport (which you probably will be since you'll be in Europe), you may want to take them up on it (or whichever hotel you're staying at - most offer this service), since airport transport from there can be a headache (like Neil said).
And Neil is also right about Istanbul/Turkey in general - I made my first trip there in May mainly because of what I read on these boards and found myself with a deep love and awe for this incredible country. It's true about the touts and a lot of people aren't prepared for that (there was a recent post from a BNA'r who hated Turkey after 2 days in the country) but you will never encounter such friendliness and warmth from its citizens, nor will you see such wild beauty in a country. And don't be intimidated by Istanbul - I headed straight there on my trip and was immediately immersed into its culture and chaos. I stayed there for 4 days then had to drag myself away to visit the rest of the country (which I found equally fascinating).
FYI, when I was there in May, the visa for Americans was $20 and I don't believe it's changed since then. It used to be $100 but was lowered sometime in 2004.
It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to. ~J.R.R. Tolkien
Posts: 537 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 27 December 2006
Very cool and thanks for all the advise so far! I realize it'll be quite different than say Amsterdam where I'll be before that, but worse comes to worse I'll only be there for 2 to 4 days max so I think it'll be ok. Another question, should I get some Turkish lira to bring with me at Schipol airport or somewhere else before I arrive? I think I read in another thread that usually ATMs give you the best currency value, but I dont want to arrive empty handed (although I'll have the money for the visa of course).
Don't worry about bringing Lira. Euros are widely accepted in Turkey (indeed, many tourist services will quote prices in Euro and then give you a crappy rate to pay in Lira). Grab money from the ATM once you arrive.
Yeah, there are plenty of atm's in Istanbul (including one at the airport near where you get your visa), so no need to get Liras in advance. You will need some if you take the metro though, so get some at the airport. I believe you must pay for the visa in your own currency, some bring some of that, too.
The first time I went to Istanbul, I thought it was slightly exotic (coming from Europe). But last time (last week) I came from Yemen and it just seemed very European. You cannot walk past a restaurant without someone urging you to come in, but the same happens in Greece.
Sounds great... Now I have another question. Can Istanbul be "done" in 3 days? That's about all I have, I'm more concerned with seeing the major sites at this time (haggia sophia, topkapi, blue mosque, grand bazaar etc) and wont really have time to wander and explore unforunately. I'll most likely be back next year sometime and have more time during that trip to soak up the culture. I realize the question is different for everyone really, but I "did" Rome in 3 or 4 days and felt I saw all the main sites (except for the Vatican museum and sistine chapel), and can't wait to go back.
We spent four days in Istanbul, and saw most of the main sights, including a day or so when we didn't do much at all. It's a huge city with a lot to do, so you could easily keep busy for a week or two, but 3-4 days should be fine just to see the famous bits.
I'll concur - most of the historic sites are close to the budget hotels in the Sultanahmet district, so it's easy to get to them quickly. And the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market are a quick tram ride away.
It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to. ~J.R.R. Tolkien
Posts: 537 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 27 December 2006
If 3 days is all you have, that's fine to see the main sites. On my first trip I was there for 4 days and saw a lot of the main sites in the centre (Hagia Sofia, Topkapi, Grand Bazaar, cisterns etc.), celebrated new year's eve near Taksim square and took a ferry to one of the Princess islands (that was a full-day trip).
I just returned to Amsterdam from my side trip to Istanbul, and it was pretty great there. I was going to stay at the Cordial House but forgot to print the directions. The girl next to me on the plane recommended the Mavi Guesthouse, which is where I ended up staying. I had troubles finding the tram after exiting the metro at the end of the line, but once I did that, I got off near the Grand Bazaar and had to backtrack to Sultanhamet area. Not having a map, I just sort of wandered in the direction other people were going and somehow happened upon the Mavi by accident really. The room was decent but the shower was cold, but for $15 I wasn't going to complain. I think I might have gotten taken for a bit, as one of my fellow roomates from the UK only paid 7 euros, and he showed up with no reservation either, so I was paying roughly 3 more euros a night than him. I got approached twice within 10 minutes of people wanting to have a drink with me but luckily I read the sign at the hostel so I knew of the scam and caught on quickly, but other than that, I felt completely safe there, and to me it was no worse than NY or any other big bustling city. I actually met a few locals near the ferries and they were great so I had a blast, and can't wait to return one of these days.
I think I might have gotten taken for a bit, as one of my fellow roomates from the UK only paid 7 euros, and he showed up with no reservation either, so I was paying roughly 3 more euros a night than him.
He probably asked for a better price. It's not really "getting taken," it's "being a poor negotiator." I suck at it, too, so am quite used to paying higher prices than those who are a little more cutthroat in their bargaining.
Yeah I dont want to seem negative or anything, but I guess since it was my first experience in a "haggling" country I was a newbie for sure. I thought $15 was fine actually but after hearing of the lower rate it sort of stings a bit but whatever.... And of course I was green in the Grand Bazaar, but I didn't do too bad and all in all my visit was totally positive and I can't wait to go back (more so to other areas of Turkey though since I didn't have that much time.)
I'll be in turkey with my 13 year old daughter Feb.12 2008. I too want to go to the princess Islands and need to travel the sights in 4 days. It will be my second stop on my RTW journey and my first for the world of touts and scams. I know it comes with the territory and I hope it all turns out positive.Would you suggest an inexpensive hotel vs a hostel since you just did this? being two females? Maybe not the right person or siuation to ask but I'm open to what you think. I must be totally out there to even begin to do this 90 day trip anyway...so if you have time please let me know what when how and why of it in Turkey....
Posts: 85 | Location: florida | Registered: 01 May 2007
Gah. Sorry to nitpick, but I've seen this mistake twice now. The islands near Istanbul are, in fact, the Princes' Islands. Although this typo appears to be pretty common when I googled it to make sure there wasn't another chain of islands in Turkey you might be interested in visiting.
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It will be my second stop on my RTW journey and my first for the world of touts and scams. I know it comes with the territory and I hope it all turns out positive.
Turkey's pretty lightweight in the touts and scams department. Istanbul is pretty much as bad as it comes in the country (only Antalya was worse in our experience), and being your first introduction to it, it may not feel all that lightweight, but it really is. The touts in Turkey are much more willing to accept "no" as an answer than other places, and the bargaining is generally done in a much more upbeat and friendly way. I also never felt like the initial asking prices were exhorbitant ripoffs.
quote:
Would you suggest an inexpensive hotel vs a hostel since you just did this? being two females?
It's whatever you're comfortable with. I wouldn't be worried about staying in a hostel...we shared a room with pairs of girls on a couple of nights in Istanbul, and I don't think they had any complaints. That said, you can get a pretty nice room in Istanbul for a very reasonable price. My thoughts for both hostel and pensions are at the top of the thread.
It's the bars that should be avoided, since that seems to be where the real cons are. Also a good general rule IMO, particularly in big cities that you're not familiar with. (Not that I imagine you were planning on a whole lot of bar hopping with your daughter).
