Inca Trail to Machupichu Information for You

Inca Trail Trekking Regulations 2008
Six years ago the Peruvian Government proposed many changes to the administration of the Inca Trail in a bid to protect its fragile eco-structure from over-use. Most of these proposals have been aimed at reducing the number of trekkers on the trail, improving the quality of the tour operators and offering a reservation system whereby trekkers will be forced to make their reservations many weeks (even months) in advance. Some of the proposals were introduced slowly throughout 2003 and 2004 but the Government started to enforce the majority of the regulations more strictly in 2005. Further regulations were introduced at the beginning of 2006 with the main aim improving porter welfare. All trekking companies that operate the Inca Trail must have an operating license which is issued at the beginning of each year.

Summary:
We recommend that you make a reservation for the Inca Trail and pay for your entrance fee well in advance. In the low season ( Oct - Mar ) in order to guarantee spaces we advise making a reservation at least 2 months in advance. For the months of April and September we recommend making a reservation 4 months in advance and for the peak months of June, July and August we recommend a minimum of 5 months in advance, preferably earlier. If you don't make a reservation and pay your trek deposit in advance it means that the tour operator won't be able to buy your trek permits. Once your tour operator has confirmed your reservation and bought your permits then it can be very difficult to change the date of trek departure and prohibited to change the name or passport number on the permit.

If you turn up in Cusco during the height of the rainy season ( January and March ) it may still be possible to find space available on certain days with some agencies 5 or 6 days prior to the trek departure date although don't rely on it. During 2008 there were many people who were disappointed not to find spaces available in the low season even when arriving in Cusco 3 weeks in advance. Things were even more difficult for people arriving in May to September with it being impossible for visitors to purchase last minute spaces on the Inca Trail upon arrival.

In the last few years the prices of the 4 day Inca Trail standard pool service have increased dramatically due to a big increase in the cost of operating the trek, increased taxes and transport costs. The added difficulty of obtaining spaces on the trek also resulted in tour operators having to depart with much smaller, less economic groups. The standard 4 day trek now costs between US$420 and US$500 per person depending on the company and the service provided.

A detailed account of the Inca Trail regulations can be found below:

1. Inca Trail entrance fees / Trek permits: As from January 2008 the entrance fee for the 4 day Inca Trail is 244 Peruvian Soles ( about US$88 ) Students and children under 15 years old receive a 50% discount. Trekking companies also have to buy a trek permit for each one of the porters in the group (41 Peruvian Soles, about US$13 per porter ). The entrance fee for the shorter Inca trail trek costs 142 Peruvian Soles (about US$51 for adults). Students and children under 15 years old pay 122 Peruvian Soles (about US$44).

2. Student discounts: Students with a valid International Student Identity Card ( ISIC ) receive a 50%$ discount on the price of the entrance fee but you must inform the tour operator at the time of making your reservation and bring the card with you on the Inca Trail. No other forms of student identity are acceptable i.e. letters from college, international youth identity cards etc. The tour operator will purchase a student trek permit for you (clearly marked only for students). At the start of the Inca Trail your permit will be checked and you will be asked to show your ISIC card and passport. If the card is not valid or you forget to take your card then there is a very high possibility that you will not be allowed to start the trek. This can cause major disappointment and also delay entry of the rest of the group to the trail. In the past you could just pay an additional fee for a standard trek permit. Due to the added bureaucracy and potential problems associated with applying for a student discount and associated delays many trekking companies have stopped offering this option.

3. Restricted numbers of trekkers: Over the last five years Peru has become a more popular travel destination especially since Machu Picchu became one of the 7 new wonders of the World.. There are many great treks throughout Peru but the Inca Trail is the most well known. During the peak season of 2000 many campsites became crowded and the trail became littered with rubbish. In early 2001 the Government proposed to reduce the number of people on the trail to 500 per day. This figure roughly comprises 200 tourists and 300 trekking staff (guides, cooks and porters).
In 2002 and 2003 the government tried to enforce the 500 limit but, due to many complaints by the local tour operators, they gave into pressure during the busy months of July and August and allowed an extra 200 persons. Since 2004 the government has strictly enforced the 500 limit, and many trekkers were disappointed that there were no spaces available.
The figure of 200 tourists includes trekkers on both the 2-day and 4-day treks as well as the Salkantay 7-day trek. As an estimate we would say that about 160 trekkers per day are starting the 4-day trek, 25 on the 2 day trek and 15 on the Salkantay Trek. In February 2008, 160 tour operators in Cusco were awarded licenses to operate the Inca Trail. With about 1500 tourists looking for just 160 available spaces divided between 160 companies it doesn't take much to realise that things can become a little complicated. Trek permits are now being issued on a first-come-first-served basis so in order to avoid disappointment we recommend booking well in advance and with a reputable trekking company.

4. Making an Inca Trail trek booking: Since only 500 trek permits are issued per day for the Inca Trail (trek permits are also required for the porters and cooks) it is important to try to make a trek reservation as far ahead as possible. There is no clear rule as to how far ahead is enough to to guarantee you a space since this depends on demand. As a guide, however, we recommend the following:
December, January, March: 2 months in advance, 3 or 4 months in advance for departures around Christmas
April, October, November: 3 months in advance, 4 months in advance around Easter
May, September: 4-5 months in advance
June, July, August: 5-6 months in advance

5. Independent Trekkers: Since June 2002 trekking independently on the Inca Trail has been prohibited. Regulations state that each trekker must be accompanied on the Inca Trail by a professionally qualified guide. Trying to organize a guide in advance is difficult since tour agencies just aren't interested in hiring out their guides. If you wait until you arrive in Cusco to arrange a guide then you are liable to be left with only the worst guides and the very high probability that all the spaces on the trail are fully booked. If you want to get away from it all and trek on your own then there are some excellent alternative treks such as Lares Valley, Choquequirao or Ausangate. If you do manage to organize a guide for the Inca Trail in advance you cannot have a group greater than 7 persons and you can't employ the services of other trekking staff such as cooks or porters.

6. Maximum Group Size: The maximum allowable group size is 16 persons. For groups larger than 8 persons there must be 2 guides. (on the shorter 2 day trek there must be 2 guides for groups larger than 07 persons)

7. Porters Working Conditions In April 2002 a new law was introduced to set a minimum wage for all porters on the Inca Trail. This has followed years of exploitation. This wage is 42 Peruvian Soles per day which is about US$15. It may not seem a lot but wages are all relative to livings costs and compared to other professions 42 Soles is quite well paid. To put things in perspective teachers earn between US$200 and US$300 per month. Even though the law exists it is not being enforced and many companies are still paying their porters as low as US$5 per day. In 2002 the maximum weight that a porter can carry was limited to 25kg ( 20kg load + 5kg personal items ). All porters have their weight checked by government officials at the start of the trail. However even this system is open to abuse and many tour operators get their guides and assistants to carry large loads across the checkpoint where they are dropped and left for the porters to pick up. Many trekkers who have hired an extra porter are also asked to carry their bags across the checkpoint to be given to the porters after they have been weighed. So even with the new regulations and a weigh-station at the beginning of the trail it is still possible to see porters carry loads of up to 35kg.

In general though, the introduction of these regulations have dramatically improved the porters working conditions compared to the conditions just four or five years ago when wages of US$5 per day and loads of 45kg were the norm. There is still a long way to go though when it comes to the provision of adequate meals, backpacks and warm dry sleeping accommodation.

8. Inca Trail Closure during the month of February: The route of the classic 4-day Inca Trail will be closed each year during the month of February to allow conservation projects to be undertaken as well as giving the vegetation a chance to recover. This is a good month to close the trail since it is also the wettest moth of the year. Machu Picchu and the shorter 2-day trail will remain open as usual.

9. Licensed trek operators: The INC ( Institute of National Culture ) is the regulatory body responsible for controlling access to Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail. In order to operate the Inca Trail companies must meet certain basic requirements proving that they have professional guides and good camping equipment, radio communications and emergency first aid including oxygen. The license to operate the Inca Trail is renewed at the beginning of each year. Due to legal problems the Government has found it hard to withdraw licenses from poor performing companies and every tour operator that has satisfied the basic requirements has so far been given a license. Legislation is likely to be introduced later in 2008 to give more power to the Ministry of Tourism and allow them to fine, suspend or close badly performing companies.
I hope this information help You or drop us on line

That's a scary long list of regulations. It really makes me rethink wanting to do the Inca trail, despite all the raving reviews I've read about the trek. The advance reservation is definitely a stumbling block for me, but I feel that cost is most prohibitive.
I am planning on doing an extended backpack odyssey of South America on the extreme-cheap, and Machu Pichu is obviously one of the must-see spots. Anyone have tips on getting up the Inca trail without shelling out $400+?

There are other ways to get there by walking, and maybe a lot cheaper, but a little long, like 8 days, and that is via Choquequirao. I wrote a small book on it but you appear to cheap to buy it, (non offense meant) but that is an experience that very few do and you would get to see many more Inca ruins and test your physical abilities as you go over passes that are over 15000'

Is much of the trail over 5000 meters? I might have a slight problem with altitude sickness, and if I did it, it would be probably over 10 days, not 8. I hike slow, and will hike slower in that altitude.

if we're looking at a 5 month wait, then I think I'm taking the train to Macchu Picchu.

I don't have that much time until I get to Peru.

There is only one pass a little over 15,000'. What you do is go to Choquiquerao, which is fairly high, I can't remember but it is easy to check and find out and then you go down to pincho uniyoc, and spend a night, and then go even lower to the rio blanco river, then up to 12000' to sleep at maizal, then the next day you go over a pass 13500 feet and then down to 11-11500 at yanama, then the next day you go over the 15000' pass, which by then , since you have been going up and down and getting your blood thicker so it can hold more oxygen, you have acclimitized yourself.

There is no question that you will be breathing hard, i was taking a breath every two steps, but I can tell you I never felt so alive for 40 years, ago when I was a hotshot forest fire fighter and really in shape and really young.

It is unquestionably a trip of a lifetime and i have taken a lot of them, and this was one of the best. Diamox is the key if you feel you may get sirochi, it will give you a little edge, maybe even a major edge. Don't wait to get to S america to b uy it as we couldn't find any in Cuzco, luckily my friend had some extra which I gave to my daughters, myself, being the oldest of the group, and thereby less prone to sirochi (one of the few benefits of old age) I took none, just sucked on some coca candy and took a few aspirins when it got real high.

Check out www.choquirau.com or los tres balcones, they have a hostel in Cachora the jumpinng off point and they can arrange mules and muleteers at a reasonable price or I can give you Oscar's USA phone number if you want help.


gtood luck

charlie

If you want to see some pics of the trail and the trip, look up zoomcharlieb on flickr and look at the set for peru or choquequirao. the book i wrote is on blurb.

charlie

There is only one thing I usually feel like saying whenever I read about the Inca trail, the bookings and disappointed travellers who where too late, or their holiday timeframe was too tight to allow waiting.
You don't need to stick with the classic Inca trail. There're Salkantay and Lares (both leading to Machu Picchu), Choquiquerao or Ausangate. More thrill, more scenic beauty and better value than the more expensive and crowed classic Inca trail. The success of classic Inca trail is only due its suitability for all kinds of visitors - from young backpackers to retired office workers. The alternative trail are more demanding, usually longer and requiring better physical shape.

It's almost ridiculous how the place got hyped within the last couple of years when it was declared one of the 7 wonders of the world.
There are a few more examples of varous places that are equally falling a victim of their own popularity.
Some 15 years ago I was to take two business friends for a city break somewhere in Europe. I suggested Prague, saying it's a beautiful city really worth visiting. They gave me a look as if I wanted to take them to some place in Siberia. They obviously thought it as a place somewhre in Eastern Europe where nothing was worth seeing.
Five years later Prague was getting overrun with tourists, and the facades of medival buildings getting decorated with McDonald's and Nike signs.

Maybe it's better to ask yourself - do I really need to do the same stuff all others do, or, can I design my own trip?

I did the Inca Trail partly because the timing worked out better for me, but I compared notes with a couple women who did the Salkantay trail (also ending at M.P.) once I got back to Cuzco and I think they got the better experience--much more isolated, one day longer. Neither is over 5000m. Inca Trail tops out at 4200m, Salkantay at 4600m. There are lots of Inca Trail "alternatives"--Salkantay, Lares, Vilcabamba, Chocuequirao, etc. The "alternatives," which seem to be great hikes in their own right, also book up much less quickly--has I not already pre-booked I saw a number of places that had adverts out front for trips leaving 1-2 days in advance (and you'd want to acclimate in Cusco at least that long unless you were coming from elsewhere in the highlands).

Charlie, your pictures of Choquequirao look unbelievable! Thanks for the tips. That path is really attractive.

I know this might sound crazy, but has anyone done any of the alternative treks without hiring guides, mulers, cooks, etc....?
Would anyone even want to consider do that?

Do the Inca trail regulations also apply the other 'alternative' paths?

I'm by no means an experienced mountaineer, so I probably wouldn't do the 15000' Choquequirao path, but the other alternatives seem very independently doable. I was hoping to just take my pack and tent and find my own way up to the ruins.

Cheers,
Adam

I know this might sound crazy, but has anyone done any of the alternative treks without hiring guides, mulers, cooks, etc....?

Some pople do it independently, but only in parts, the last two days, which are the easy part (I'm talking about Salkantay that I walked).
How would you carry all your equipment and provisions for 5 or 8 days?
The trails are not marked and there are no signs, so you'd easily get lost.
It's also risky in case of injury. You'd be alone in wilderness with no help.

People get lost even on much easier trails like to Cabanaconde and Colca Canyon. There've been quite a few fatale cases.
If you aren't an experienced mountaineer, you shouldn't even consider doing it without a group.

Re trying to do it alone. If I was 40 years younger and in great shape, i still don't think I would pass up the opportunity to hire a little help. It's not like here in the states where it can costg you an arm and a leg, i mean, I've gone into the Idaho wilderness out of Mc Call and hunted there and once carried a whole deer out in one carry for about 4 miles, and i carried 200 pound moose quarters out of the brush in the Arctic circel up on the Colville river, but that elevation is nothing compared to Peru and the cost of assistance is so little.

However, there is a tale of a couple who did the Choquequirao trail, Jenny and ... and it is somewhere in these archives i believe, and they did it on their own so it certainly can be done. If I were to try it, there are hamlets, or sometimes only a house or two on the trail and i think you can buy meals from the people in most of these places, so that cuts out most of the food, especially if you like cuy.

But I would save your energy for more side trips, like in the Rio Blanco valley there is Cota Coca, which I didn't see and was only recently discovered and Quaryrachina is all over the mountain above Maizal and i think there are other lost cities up there. The man at Maizal took my friend Frank on a trip up to Quaryrachina and it was a ball buster and i just couldn't take two ball busters in one day, or rather, i knew I could but wasn't sure if that would leave any leftover energy for the next day, so i plan on goin in ther again and camping at Maizal and then spedning maybe a week exploring and looking for my own lost city.

rgds


charlie

Re regs, there are some entrance fees at choq, not much and you do need to have a copy of your passport and sign in with the sherrif or whateve at Cachora. Bring your own copy, don't expect a copy machine, there is one, but it took us hours to make the copy.

I highly recommend the Salkantay Trail. Beautiful varied scenery, from snow capped mountains to jungle, and you get to enjoy it without hordes of people. When I did it (in November), our group was the only one on the trail that day. So thats 14 compared to 500 on the Inca Trail. Less people, beautiful scenery, much more flexibility in the booking and a fraction of the price. It's a winner.

Doing these treks independently and alone, without a porter or guide is in my opinion a false economy.