Hello! I will be traveling from Tel Aviv to Muscat via Amman and Abu Dhabi. It is a fairly short trip, roughly 7 to 8 hours, but on my way back I have a seven hour layover in Amman.

Is it possible and worthwhile to try to see the city? I am a short, non-Arabic speaking Canadian girl traveling solo. I have my wits about myself and traveled around Europe alone for a month but I know the Middle East is a different playing field.

How would I get to the city and what should I do while I am there?

Also, I lived in Israel last year and am aware that Jordan and Israel have a peace treaty. However, I've also heard that the Jordanians aren't so keen on Israel, so is it better not to mention that?

Thank you!

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Is it possible and worthwhile to try to see the city?

Possible, certainly. Worthwhile, I really couldn't tell you. Amman is a fairly generic, modern city and when I was there we pretty much just used it as a base to head out to other spots in the area, don't think we saw a single attraction in Amman, nor do I have much idea what you might do there.

The airport is actually about the same distance from Madaba as it is from Amman, and Madaba tends to be more a spot that's easily touristed. I'd say...if your looking for a glimpse of modern Arab culture and just want to hang out in a cafe or something, go to Amman. If you want to see some ancient mosaics and various early Christian sites, head for Madaba. However Madaba is a lot more sanitized than Amman, and being the Christian centre in the country, doesn't exhibit much in way of typical culture.

On a short time frame, you're probably best to get a taxi either way. Negotiate a rate for the whole time to get where you want to go and back. Taxis in Jordan are fairly cheap. Though my memory is failing a bit on the specific cost, I would think that 40-45 JD should be plenty to hire one for the whole time, possibly even less. We also found that Jordanian taxi drivers were much more likely to be honest than drivers in other countries.

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I have my wits about myself and traveled around Europe alone for a month but I know the Middle East is a different playing field.

Not as much as you'd think. Arabs tend to be friendly and hospitable, and many that I met just wanted to make us feel welcome in their country.

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Also, I lived in Israel last year and am aware that Jordan and Israel have a peace treaty. However, I've also heard that the Jordanians aren't so keen on Israel, so is it better not to mention that?

I think you'd be hard pressed to find an Arab anywhere who's keen on Israel. I certainly wouldn't bring it up in casual conversation, if only to avoid a lengthy political discussion. However, I don't think you'd have any real problems if you do let it slip.

Any thoughts on what to do with my suitcase? I'll be traveling with a backpack and a small piece of luggage on wheels.

Haven't a clue. There may be luggage storage at the airport, but I haven't been, so couldn't say for certain. If you're hiring a driver for the day, you can just leave the luggage in the car, but this does require trusting your driver.

There is no luggage storage in Amman airport so you will have to carry it with you. The airport in Amman is pretty small to satrt with and getting out of it is a much better idea than staying there for 7 hours. Expect thorough security, but not unreasonable, on your back in.
Airport to downtown Amman was 20JD one way, no idea how much if yoy want to have the car for yourself the whole 7 hours. You may want to consider renting a car and driver through an agency, just do a search online and that will make it easier for you. Don't know your budget but it's an option.

For such a short stay, and depending at what time of the day!!!!, you could consider visiting the Citadel ( every city in ME has one) pretty cool views of Amman ( middle of teh original 7 mountains), and take the short walk to the Roman amphitheatre. In the Citadel museum you will see the Dead Sea scrolls. The other set is in Jerusalem. This tour should take about 3 hours maibe 4 tops. Should keep in mind that lugging any king of lugage in Amman is just as comfortable and carrying your luggage on a Stairmaster. The whole city is built on mountains, 7 originally. They still debate how many they cover now 23, 24...

Jordanians are very friendly, and they are very proud of their country, just like the rest of the ME people. Considering the great history and goegraphy, they have good reasons to be proud. All of ME, except Israelies also do a piss poor job at marketing what they have there, so the few western tourists that make it there past smoke and mirrors, are pleasently surprised of they find.
Worth visiting Jordan, need more than 7 hours though.
Cheers

Hey Julie, I was wondering how your layover in Jordan worked out. I have a 16-hr layover in Amman on my way back to Israel from Thailand in a couple weeks and am trying to figure out what in the world to do with myself. I'm going to have a big back pack as well, so I'm a bit concerned if there are no lockers in the airport. Hearing about your experience would be great! Thanks.

My friends in Oman managed to arrange a cab for me so I was out of the airport for most of the time.

My cab cost 80$ (a fair price for eight hours but I would have paid less if I could had) and I checked out Madaba, Mt Nebo, and Amman.

All of them are pretty boring. Also, don't bring up Judaism ever, even if you are simply comparing the three monotheistic religions.

If you want to get out of the airport, the only way to do is by cab. I left my backpack (Steve's Pack from Jerusalem - I tried really hard to hide it) in the cab and that included my laptop and it was fine, really.

You probably could venture down to Petra if you really wanted - it is roughly four hours by cab, so that's eight hours of transportation plus 2 to go through the airport (but if your stuff is checked, which if you are flying the same airline - Royal Jordanian in my case -, it should be fine) leaving six hours of chilling in Petra. I haven't been there myself but I heard it's what is really worth visiting in Jordan, not Amman.

Amman was OK in terms of safety but definitely have your wits about you. Also, if you want to check out the citadel, do it BEFORE 4 because it will be closed otherwise. Also check out Rainbow Street, but there isn't much there. The pride of Amman, according to my cab driver, are eight traffic circles, so if that gives you a sense of excitement, you are better off heading down south, if you're up to it.

If you are in Amman, check out Al Quds falafel on Rainbow Street - it is definitely the best! Also try to pick up some Bedouin tea and Arab pastries - all very cheap.

Don't forget to take pictures!

Hey, thanks so much for your reply! So, I know this is going to sound like a silly question, but I'm going to ask it anyway... how in the world does it work to rent a car/driver? It seems like it would be so awkward. You actually spent eight hours with your cab driver...and he just waited for you whenever you wanted to go do something? Haha...I'm honestly not as naive as I sound, but have just never thought about getting a cab for more than a trip from A to B.

Also, I know Jordan and Israel are technically on peaceful terms, but are there potential problems? I have two Israeli visas in my passport...how do they respond to that in the airport? Is there anything else I should know about dress/behavior/customs etc? This will be my first experience in a middle eastern country other than Israel, so I'm not sure what to expect.

Ok, must study...one more final before Thailand, yay!

Thanks again,

-jenny

As I said, my friend's family set up the cab for me but I'd imagine that there are cabs at the airport plus you seem to have Internet access, so you can look up a company. There are companies specifically for long-distance calls.

So my cab driver was a nice guy and his English was decent and actually ended up asking me on a date (that didn't work out for a lot of reasons, as you can imagine) and whenever I said I wanted to do something, no problem, away we went.

It does help to have some sort of itinerary in mind and look up things to do in Jordan, as you have the luxury of time. Also, if you are used to the backpacker lifestyle, hanging out with a new person for a day is typical and it is the same as being with a cab driver. Don't sweat it.

Do keep in mind that your driver will most likely want to pray during the day, and while that takes about ten minutes for each session, you'll want to keep yourself occupied for those ten minutes and try not to stand idly like a tourist. I wouldn't advise it, at least, unless you don't mind strange men coming up to you.

My driver was pretty cool and was a former soccer player so he was like the King of Amman and knew everyone. He also treated me to falafel. Yum!