BootsnAll's Travel Community

Alot of people are writing (I was one of them) who are wondering about safety, ease, etc. about traveling alone in these countries. I would like to open up this discussion to let people chime in and give their opinions. I was in Syria and Lebanon for about 4 weeks (October) and feel like I need to clarify some things.

First: Yes, it's a hassle to get a visa ($100) into Syria if you're an American. If you're British you can get one at the border, though get there early because you'll be there about 6 hours while they sort things out with Damascus. Once you're in however, you'll never be treated better. Despite the frustrations of getting local transportation, it's so cheap amd with the people you'll meet, it's unmissable. If you're coming from Turkey, your first stop will usually be Aleppo (Haleb) and once you're there just ask anyone where such and such a hotel is. You will be helped. From Aleppo the choice is yours, but I would recommend Hama, Homs, Palmyra, Damascus, Latakia. From these places, you'll be in close proximity to the sites and all of these place have very cheap accomodation (4-8 a night USD- this is very liberal and will probably be cheaper). Syrians are incredibly friendly, hospitable and helpful. THIS COUNTRY IS SAFE IN THESE AREAS... Learn a little Arabic and they'll love you even more. There is so much to see and the culture is a lesson to live as far as hospitality goes. Compared to countries such as Egypt and Turkey, I'd go to Syria any day...

Second: Lebanon. See above, except if you don't speak Arabic it's even better. The sites, from Tripoli to Tyre (Sour) to the Bekaa Valley you'll be overwhelmed. Beirut is a great base and one of the best cities I've ever visited (including the nightlife-unbeatable). Again, you absolutely cannot walk into this city without leaving with a dozen new friends. I cannot say enough good things about this beautiful (if sometimes frustrating) city, and the food is unbeatable as far as the Middle East and Europe is concerned. As an American, I was hesitant to go but found ZERO problems and would live there in a second if I could (and will try).

Third: Public Transportation. Frustrating but cheap. Bargain and then bargain some more. You can literally go from the north of Syria to Damascus for less than $5. You may get sidetracked or lost, but stay cool and you'll be fine. There's always someone willing to help. Taxis are cheap. Once you know how much a ride costs (ask a local first), don't even ask in the cab. Just get in and when you get out give him that and maybe 50 cents more and he won't argue. Although I don't usually condone lying, if you say you've been there before, he'll be less likely to say anything. Be firm but fair...

Fourth: Trust your instincts. 99.99% of the people there are just as interested in your as you are in them. If they invite you to tea and sheesha, by all means go. You may not communicate much, but a smile and thank you (shukran) goes a long way. as Salaam alaykum will get you far and you'll make many many friends.

Last: These countries are by far more enjoyable than their neighbors. Though Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Turkey are wonderful in their own respects, the people in Syria and Lebanon are beyond description. The souqs in Aleppo and Damascus are better than anything I've ever seen. Lebanon, well, is in my opinion one of the best countries I've seen.

If anyone can add (I will I'm sure) anything else, please do. I've planned most of my trips off of Boots-n-all and hope this helps anyone with any ideas of traveling through these countries. Have fun, keep an open mind and never pass up an offer for tea!

Hi there!
I am planning a trip late September early October 2007 to Jordan, Syria and possibly Lebanon. I only have two weeks to spend in the area and then I have to fly out.
Did you make any reservation ahead of time or you just showed up to a hotel and hoped for the best?
Based on the readings I did on various sites looks like my preference would be to spend a lot of time in Syria and Lebanon. Just like in my favorite movie Pulp Fiction, I would describe my desire to visit Syria just like Samuel L Jackson describes his wish to go to Amsterdam. I’m totally going…..
Another question I have is about transportation. Did you travel by train from Damascus to Aleppo? It’s supposed to be awesome.
Cheers and happy travels.

Don't worry about reservations. We didn't encounter a full hotel anywhere in the middle east. (Well, okay, the hotel in Aqaba said they were full, until we said we'd be staying 3 nights, and then, magically, a room openned up. Also the hotel in Damascus was out of rooms with ensuite, and in Aleppo we had to spend the first night in a dorm.) Regardless, if one hotel's full, there will be others nearby that aren't.

We actually preferred Jordan to Syria, though both were great, so I'd leave your schedule open to decide for yourself. With only two weeks, even two countries will be a packed schedule, so I'd suggest not trying to get to all three.

Transportation:
The only train we took in the area was the Lattakia-Aleppo run, which was great value (3 hours, first class, great scenery...80 SYP, about $1.50 p.p.). As you're crunched for time, I'd actually suggest skipping Aleppo in favour of another stop in Syria, or longer in Damascus.

There's so many transportation options, though. In Jordan, there's a minibus system that is very effective, though some of the buses only leave when they're full, and, as a result can involve a lot of waiting if the route is less popular, or being serviced by a full-sized bus, which happens occasionally. It can be a bit intimidating, though, since all destinations are marked in Arabic, and you have to ask someone for help.

Syria has a micro-bus system, which we didn't even try, though from what I can tell was similar to the minibuses in Jordan. They also have luxury buses, which are almost as good as their Turkish cousins. They leave frequently, are pretty cheap (we went Damascus-Palmyra for 125 SYP, about $2.50, each), and are quite comfortable. Just go to the station and let a group of touts know where you're going. One of them will be leaving shortly.

If you only have 2 weeks you're going to have to move fast, which can be a problem especially in Syria. Inshallah is the response you'll hear if you ask questions regarding the future (including bus departures). A good rule of thumb is to follow Heisenberg's Uncertainty Principle - you can know where or when a bus is leaving from, but never both. Trains, I heard, sell out fast and are slower but take it if you're a trainophile. Depending on where you start in Syria (I would advise against trying to see all three countries in 2 weeks, but it is possible), if you're going from north to south the normal starting point would be Aleppo (Haleb). Two days minimum here. The souq is awesome and the Citadel offers great views. I stayed at Zahrat ar-Rabie (LP recommends- no reservations necessary- $4 a night) and next door is Travellers Hotel. They're in the "Tire" area so it's in a bit of an unusual spot. From Aleppo you can head by bus or service taxi to Latakia to the southwest or south to Hama. Hama is relaxed, beautiful and friendly. For about $10 you can rent a car and driver for a day and he'll take you to Crac de Chevalier or Apamea and another castle pretty close along the way... I stayed at the Cairo Hotel(no reservations necessary $5-6 a night). From Hama you can head down to Damascus (ash-Sham), Palmyra or backtrack a little to Apamea. From Damascus it's about 4 hours and $8-$10 for a ride to Beirut in a servie. They fill up pretty fast so you'll probably wait less than an hour for yours to fill up too. Go there. Beirut is awesome and give yourself at least 5 nights. In Beirut is Talal's New Hotel and it's in a good location (Gemmayzah) close to a taxi/bus stand and good nightlife. There's tons to see in Lebanon (The cedars, Biblos, Sour, Baalbeck, Saida, etc.) and it's all daytripable. The border between Syria and Lebanon (especially returning from Lebanon) can take a while. If you're on a bus you're gonna hold up the whole thing and they may end up leaving you. If this happens don't panic. A servie will be coming soon and just tell him where you're going and make sure you have your bag. Better to just take a servie the whole way and let the other passengers yell at the border guys for you. If you're heading to Jordan from Beirut you'll have to pass through Damascus again. To get from Beirut to say Amman in one day will be a looooong journey. Try overnighting in Damascus and tackle the Jordanian border the next morning. Again, it's about $8 for a servie from Damascus to Amman. To head down south to Wadi Rum and/or Petra, it's about a 3-4 hour ride. If you take a servie you can arrange a ride for about $5-10 to Wadi Musa. Buses only leave for there from Amman when they're filled, so only get on if it looks like it's gonna fill up. Remember to get your TWO OR MULTIPLE entry visa for Syria before you leave. Lebanese visas you pay when you leave the country (about 25,000 lira) and Jordan you pay on arrival (I think 10 USD). For reservations, in general, the only place I'd book ahead is in Beirut. Everywhere else there are enough budget options to not have to worry. Other things: These places prefer US currency. Bring lots of ones, fives and tens. Microbuses are very fun and cheap- just shout where you're going and they'll stop if it's along the way (also, they should never cost more than 10 or 20 cents within the city). Taxi drivers will try to rip you off if you ask how much a ride is beforehand. Find out from the hotel the price and then pay that when you get out. The food in all these places is awesome and cheap. Drink tea. Wear long pants always unless you want to get stared at. If you can wait, go to Jordan another time when you can spend at least a week or two there. There's just too much to see. Have fun!