West Africa advice needed

My partner and I are in the very early stages of planning a (hopefully) 6 month trip to West Africa. We haven't finalised all the countries yet, but are certain we want to go to Nigeria, Benin, Mali, Ghana and Cape Verde.

Does anyone have any advice on costs when there, must see places, general help, etc?

Many thanks in advance!

Jennifer! YES!!!!

I'm happy to hear you are coming to West Africa. Most people only consider the south and east for travel. This is a shame.

Ghana is the country I know the best. Studied abroad there and was just there again for a few months this summer. Perhaps the friendliest people on earth. Definitely check out the Volta region, you can do some great hiking around lush hills, banana plantations, small villages, and you will meet amazing Ewe people everywhere. Many people don't like Accra, but if you spend some time there and get to know it, you may come to love it. I have. Definitely check out cape coast and elmina and for perhaps the best beach in ghana head to Green Turtle Lodge near Takoradi. It is closest to the fishing village of Akwidaa. You may end up spending a month there alone. You can google green turtle lodge and check out their site. This place has become a mecca for volunteers and travelers alike and for good reason. Kumasi is cool for the ashanti culture, but I find Accra a bit more relaxed, even though both are chaotic.

Benin is awesome as well. Really interesting voodoo culture, some great villages, cotonou is a lot of fun, pendjari national park is awesome in the north, maybe the best safari you can take in west africa. You can see lions, elephants, buffalo, antelope and more.

I am a week into my first trip in Mali as I write this. I have been mostly couchsurfing in west Africa (which I highly recommend!!), but in Bamako I am staying at the Sleeping Camel, an awesome hostel that is about $8 with great food, wireless internet, and hot water. I have seen much of the country yet, but I am digging it already. A big part of my trip is music related and Mali knows how to bring it in this domain for sure. Will let you know how things go when I head east.

Haven't done nigeria, or cape verde..

Some general stuff.. costs are a bit cheaper in ghana because the exchange rate is better. The CFA, the currency of francophone west africa really kind of sucks. But even in the francophone countries you can eat great street food for a few dollars, often times less. I highly recommend couchsurfing, especially in the cities. I have made amazing new friends and had an inside look at a lot of places I probably wouldn't have liked otherwise. I would carry coartem as a backup treatment for malaria, even if you are taking prophylactics. I have had malaria twice, on each of my trips to africa and coartem has saved me both times. It costs about $12 at a pharmacy in africa. Works quickly and effectively, has two powerful drugs in it. Also carry ciprofloxacin with you if travelers diarrhea gets particularly violent. I have a blog with more info and some pics. I am always psyched to hear about people traveling West Africa. You will not be disappointed. Oh and one last piece of advice: slow travel is the best travel. B well, Phil

Phil- I sent you a PM and would love to hear more about your Malian travels. What is the safety situation there like for Western travelers? Are you planning on heading north of Mali... to Gao or Timbuktu?

Jennifer- consider going to Senegal as well. It's a beautiful country with a piece of everything W Africa has to offer....There are sand dunes in the north, surf along the coast (dakar), waterfalls and great bike trips in the south east, and palm tree lined beaches in the south. There are many int'l flights to/from dakar. i've been living in senegal for a year and have been to most of the country Let me know if you want more info or specific details.

Copied from my email to christine
I have yet to travel outside of Bamako, but will be doing so later this week. I'm planning on taking a boat to timbuktu and then driving back and going through djenne and dogon country. Everyone I've talked to is convinced that this is safe. Gao may be a bit dicey, but as of now it's not on my itinerary. The most dangerous places seem to be north and east of timbuktu. The closer you get to the niger border, the more likely you are to have a problem from what I've been told. As for Bamako, I love it. It is in many ways just another west african city, but a big motivation for me on this trip is Malian music and I have been able to hear and see a lot of it in Bamako. It is certainly not an overwhelming city in terms of size and I've met a lot of friendly folks. Also, it definitely has the Sahel/Desert vibe, which I like a lot.
B well, Phil

I've only been to 2 countries in West-Africa so I can't really compare, but Burkina Faso is one of my favourite countries in the world, so I would suggest not missing it. It's on your way from Mali to Ghana and Benin anyway.

About the safety of Mali, I know my bf (who's a guide) has travelled from the Burkina-Mali border to Gao this year under police protection, so there is reason for concern but it is possible. The Dogon country and west of there should be safe.

Hi All:

I planning to head to W. Africa for several months sometime starting in mid-2011. I'm wondering just how proficient you need to be in speaking French to get around most of the Francophone countries?

I studied French for three years in high school, but was not a very serious student and that was many, many years ago. So, in preparation for my trip, I resumed my French studies with one-on-one instruction at the Alliance d'Francaise here in my town. I'm making good progress and will have about 8 months of study under my belt by the time I start my travels. However, there is no way I'll be anywhere close to fluent by then. I expect, at best, I'll be able to accurately describe my proficiency as "Advanced Beginner" or perhaps, "Barely Intermediate" by then. I am hoping I can continue to develop my skills once I'm "thrown into the pool" and forced to speak on a daily basis. I'm just wondering if this is going to be a real issue preventing me from traveling independently around the region. Any thoughts (or encouragement!) you can share will be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Pelke

Speaking a bit of French is definitely going to make it easier, as very few people speak English. But you don't need to be fluent. It's not anyone's native tongue, so they will understand if you're not fluent. I found it a lot easier to practice French in Africa than in France, just because people understand better how hard it can be.

Thanks for the advice, Seraphim! I appreciate it.

Pelke

Wow, you've already received some great input and advice!
You're definitely in for an amazing and unforgettable adevnture.

I've been to Benin 4 times now. Usually spending 1-3 months there at a time. I've also been to Ghana and Togo but haven't spent nearly as much time there.
For must-see places in Benin I'd say:
Ouidah (Python temple, slave route, beaches), Ganvie (the Venice of Africa, city on stilts), Abomey (the royal palace), Penjari National Park (as mentioned above-best in West Africa), Cotonou (fun and chaotic big city!). Also try and visit some smaller villages. It's easy to get "off the beaten trail" in Benin (and West Africa in general) as there isn't much of a "beaten trail" to begin with.
Togo: Kpalime
Ghana: Tamale, Mole National Park (Walking safari! Pretty awesome!) Kokrobite

If you need any more information on Benin just message me. As for costs depends where and what you eat and how comfortable of a trip you want. I'd say $25-30/day is about right for shared transportation, a decent hotel and street food. Restaurants might bump it up to $35 or so.
If you need any hotel names or suggestions I am more than willing to share!
Have a great trip!
Ben

Thanks for all your help guys! It's been a godsend!

Are there any other countries you would recommend? I think some of the border crossings may prove more difficult than we originally envisaged!

Thanks again!

Hey all,

Considering maybe a 4 month trip to West Africa this December-March. I'd like to first base myself in Dakar for maybe 2 months, and do something productive. Work in a hostel, teach English, find a program in one of the universities, etc. After that, I'd of course like to travel.

My first basic question is as follows: what's the word on securing tourist visas for surrounding countries--can I do it in Dakar? I'm an American (with an Israeli stamp in the pport, if this matters), and am interested in traveling in Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana, Togo, and Benin.

Thanks in advance for the help. Also, if anyone is really keen, I'd love a counseling session via Skype!

Cheers,

Will